Erin go Bragh! (Ireland Forever!)

The second leg of our Grand Tour this summer took us to Ireland, justifiably known as the Emerald Isle. It is here perhaps that I went the craziest taking pictures. Once back on dry land after crossing the Irish Sea, we settled in Waterford, established by Reginald the Viking in the early 900s, and famous since the 1700s for being home to the fine crystal that bears the city's name.

    We stayed at the Tower Hotel, aptly named as it stands just about twenty feet from the short but impressive Reginald's Tower. Built sometime between the 13th and 14th centuries, it was used at different times as a mint, a prison, and a military storehouse.

    Our first evening in Ireland was a foreshadowing of the fun this country has to offer. I don't think there are any unhappy Irishmen or Irishwomen. Everyone is in a perpetual party mood. For dinner at Hobson's, housed within the hotel, we sat at long tables that encourage sociability. Our end was populated by people from Michigan, New Jersey, and Georgia, all (except me) eagerly awaiting the spectacle at the end of the meal that is the preparation of an Irish Coffee. 

    For an appetizer, I tried the smoked salmon rolls with cream and roasted vegetables, a subtle and light start that stimulates your appetite for the heartier main course, a Guinness-glazed flat beef steak in the company of the ubiquitous Yorkshire pudding.

    The next morning was a shopper's delight. We visited the iconic Waterford crystal factory to see magic in the making, how a block of icy glass turns into a masterpiece. And of course, they have a magnificent showroom where you can indulge in purchasing pieces that range from a votive candle holder (that's what I bought) to Cinderella's carriage carved in precise detail.

    Feeling spoiled and sophisticated with my Waterford purchase, I was ready for our next stop at Kilkenny Castle. Built in the 1190s by Richard de Clare, 2nd Earl of Pembroke, nicknamed Strongbow, the castle was part of the town's fortification system. In the 15th century it belonged to the Butlers of Ormond, a powerful ruling family of which Lady Margaret Butler was a member. Lady Margaret was the wife of Sir William Boleyn and consequently the paternal grandmother of Anne Boleyn, second wife of King Henry VIII.

   

     After indulging in a supersized eclair in the castle bakery, we said goodbye to bucolic Kilkenny and readied ourselves for some boisterous fun. Dublin is a bustling, happy city where people work hard and play harder. Our Hilton hotel was ten steps across from the Sean O'Casey Bridge, an ultra modern structure over the River Leiffy  that provides opportunity for a lovely promenade to the south side of the quays, the shopping side, the nightlife side. My ultimate goal as I walked the lively streets was to find The Temple Bar, established in the 1800s (although the building has been there since the 1600s) and perhaps the most iconic pub in Dublin. It takes up an entire corner and adorns the street with flower boxes that cascade down the building on all sides, it's painted black, lipstick red, and gold, and it's always busy, no matter the time of day. I wonder if it has something to do with the over 450 types of rare whiskey available, the largest collection in all of Ireland?

    During our search for The Temple Bar, we stopped at Cloud Nine, a gelato joint that delighted with its outstanding performance of that elusive authentic creamy, flavorful quality that sets Italian ice cream so far apart from any other, at least for me. 

    Dublin provided one of the most entertaining evenings I've spent EVER. At Taylor's Irish Cabaret we were immersed into the Irish experience. The dining hall is an enormous medieval barn, thatched roof and all, with long tables, all strategically placed to get the best view of the stage. An award-winning group of Irish dancers enthrall with their skilled stepdance, and a trio of superb Irish musicians regale us with happy jigs and beloved Irish ballads that can uplift you, amuse you, or bring a tear to your eye. And all this while enjoying a dish of hearty Irish Stew and all the ale and whiskey you dare to consume.

    On our way north in expectation of crossing the North Channel into Scotland, we stopped in Belfast, the capital of Northern Ireland, and known to most as the historical center of sectarian conflict between Catholics and Protestants. Although its past has been violent and polarizing at times, on this day we marveled at its stunning Victorian architecture represented by Belfast City Hall, a sprawling beauty that grew from the Old Town Hall when Queen Victoria awarded Belfast city status in the 19th century.

    We said goodbye to lovely Ireland, land of saints and scholars, with wonderful memories of laughter and amazing sites. Next stop, Scotland!

    B.B. Free ©2022

The Crimson Moon

   

Dahlonega, GA... musicians' favorite gig? Turns out, yes. The Parker-Nix Storehouse, home of The Crimson Moon, was built in 1858 as a general store, and it's the oldest commercial building in the town square. It has even been romanticized by the locals as a once-upon-a-time mythical house of ill-repute. Today, it seems the acoustics provided by the wood interior is favored by club-circuit musicians. It's like playing inside a giant acoustic guitar, I guess.
 
     We arrived on a lazy Sunday afternoon, and the place was nearly empty. A lone guitar player, Jason Childs, was finishing a set. We sat right in front of the stage and enjoyed his last two songs. I joked with John, a prodigious guitar player himself, that I wish he would be the type to just jump on stage and jam with the talent. As if pixie dust had fallen on us, Jason turned to John and started a conversation with him about guitars which soon led to an offer to try out several instruments. What followed was a dream come true for me. I know what a gifted musician (disguised as a CPA) I married. I just want to share that with everyone everywhere we go. That made our visit to this groovy joint a highlight of our Georgia getaway weekend.
     The food wasn't bad either. Not award-winning, but appropriate for the venue and atmosphere. We ordered the Fab & Fancy grilled cheese sandwich, The Moon's Burger, and the BBQ Plate. My sandwich was generous, prepared on good whole wheat bread and containing plenty of crispy bacon and caramelized onions. What it lacked was cheese. The menu promised two cheeses, but all I could find was one slice of a cheese I couldn't recognize, and which evidently had a hard time melting on the grill. I didn't get that gooey experience you associate with a grilled cheese sandwich. Not 'Fab' at all. More like a 'Fancy' BLT.
     Once again, John gave in to his burger addiction only to be disappointed. All his usual ingredients were there, the mushrooms, the onions, the cheese, the bacon, but the flavor and execution fell short. I admire my husband for his perseverance. I would've given up on the quest a long time ago, and only trusted my favorite to tried and true establishments, but his hope springs eternal.
     Both the sandwiches were satisfying even if not captivating, but the BBQ plate earned the menu some points. A hearty portion of pulled pork in heirloom barbecue sauce, came with a thick, buttery slice of Texas toast, battered fries, and a kicky pineapple slaw.
   

     I could see myself returning to this intimate, friendly setting to enjoy performances by their accomplished visiting musicians, and even savoring the food, as long as I keep my expectations in check.

BB Free ©2016
   

Havana 1957

   

The Cuban restaurant field in Miami is crowded, to say the least, and competition is fierce. To stand out in this contest, you can either go forward and innovate, or you can capitalize on the element of nostalgia. Havana 1957 impresses with its striking nightclub environment, a traditional Cuban menu, and a spirited live music show that is quickly becoming a favorite among the great Cuban population. That said, this native Cuban always looks for a certain flavor that will conjure memories of that special seasoning in my mother's and my numerous aunts' cooking. I have found it before, but not here.

     We ordered two cocktails we believed would be executed to perfection considering the context, an orange Mojito, or Orangito, and a mango Daiquiri. John said the Mojito had a hint of orange in the rum, and it was sweet, as expected. My $11 Daiquiri, however, was no more than a glorified mango pulp slushie. I've had better and cheaper.
     I live for gastronomic experimentation, but when it comes to Cuban food, there's a standard that must be met for me to consider it good. It's a generational benchmark set a long time ago by a group of masterful women who ruled in the kitchen. For that reason, when I visit a Cuban eatery, I have to go for the staples. John ordered the 'vaca frita', refried shredded beef and sauteed onions, with rice and black beans for sides. I ordered pork chunks, also with sauteed onions, in the company of black beans and 'tostones', or plantain fritters.
   

John's vaca frita was arguably one of the best I've had. It was well seasoned and tender, a quality not easy to achieve with refried beef. My pork chunks were average. The flavor was forgettable, and they were just a bit overcooked. The tostones were perfectly suited for the pork chunks- toasted right, but not accompanied by any 'mojo', the traditional garlic oil marinade for your dipping pleasure.
     The dessert menu offered the expected flans, guava cheesecake, and Tres Leches (Three Milks), a moist yellow cake that has been soaked in a mixture of whole, evaporated, and condensed milks. We skipped the course for two reasons. First, we weren't thrilled with the meal, and second, we were on the hunt for a concoction we'd heard about at a different restaurant called Nutella Overdose. I will leave the details on that for a forthcoming post, but the name says it all.

     Havana 1957 came highly recommended, and I do believe their live music and performances offer entertainment with a unique Cuban flavor. That and the nostalgic feel of the space are the elements that would entice me back, but sadly, not the food.
   
BB Free ©2016