Auld Lang Syne

I will confess that Scotland was not at the top of my priority list when choosing the itinerary for our trip, yet as often happens in life, it turned out to be the most memorable of experiences.

Edinburgh Castle

    We arrived at our hotel gloriously located in the theatre district and right next to the exquisite Theatre Royal Bar, a place I will always hold dear because it's where I worked through my fear of the much maligned Haggis. The decor is all an homage to theatre with walls covered in posters of different titles surrounding an impressive mahogany bar. In the seating area lives a majestic fireplace that evokes chilly nights spent in this space, dressed in woolen clothing and sipping your favorite libation in front of flickering flames. A larger sitting area in the back feels more like a restaurant, and here is where my foodie experience happened.

    Their Haggis Filo Parcels in whiskey sauce couldn't be less intimidating. These adorable philo pockets containing the savory treat originally made with oatmeal, animal offal, suet, onions, and seasonings. However, haggis has evolved into a variety of versions that can include lamb, pork, beef, and venison. There's even vegan versions of this national delicacy. I didn't ask what version I was getting, and I was expecting the crumbly sausage and bread texture that had often been described to me. The stuffing in these little pockets, though, tasted and felt more like a meat mousse, creamy with a bit of texture, savory and subtle. I thought I would be bathing each bite in the whiskey sauce to attenuate any unpleasant aftertaste, but no need. The sauce was delicious too, but those little Parcels stood proudly on their own.

    I also tried the Elderberry Lemonade and it's my new favorite. Softly tangy and sweet with a gentle roll of bubbles— so refreshing, so delicate. And then,Sticky Toffee Pudding, a moist sponge cake with the deep flavor of dates lavishly drizzled with toffee sauce and served warm with vanilla ice cream. There's a lot of sad things going on in this world, but this treat just wants to make you utterly happy, if only for a few minutes.

    Our first adventure in Scotland was a game-changer for me. While Windsor Castle will always be possibly the most imposing of medieval structures because of size, history, and relevancy in today's royal world, Edinburgh Castle takes the crown as most magical and mystical. Set upon a formidable rock with breathtaking views of Edinburgh, this castle will transport you as soon as you walk up the hill and through its massive doors flanked by William Wallace and Robert the Bruce, iconic heroes of Scottish history.

Robert the Bruce

William Wallace

    

    If I had to pick a favorite feature of the castle besides the stunning views, I would have to say it was Queen (Saint) Margaret's Chapel. Built in the 12th century by King David I, Margaret's fourth son, it is the oldest surviving building in Scotland.

    A good old-fashioned tour revealed more marvels of the city. On prestigious Heriot Row, I took notice of famed Number 17, once the home of Robert Louis Stevenson. The Palace of Holyroodhouse is the British monarch's official residence while in Scotland, but us royal watchers know they much prefer their home in the Highlands, Balmoral. The Hub has to be the most striking site in Edinburgh. Its Gothic presence is indeed the highest point in the city skyline. Built in 1850 to house the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland, today it's an arts and events center and home to Edinburgh International Festival.

    A day rich with the sights and sounds of this historic city can only end with a swanky meal at Gusto Italian, a refined Sicilian restaurant and one of the best restaurants in Edinburgh. My choice of appetizer was Hummus, served with music bread — and Italian flatbread resembling parchment paper—and pumpkin seeds, all put together in a creative architectural design. My entree was the Pan-Roasted Chicken Breast with Mushroom and Tarragon served with crispy polenta, also a well-executed dish with all its flavor promises kept, especially the polenta. But my smile widened at dessert time. Bombolinis are dough balls served with Chantilly cream, chocolate and Biscoff sauces, and fruits of the forest sorbet. The name sounds like something an Italian nonna would call her grandbabies, and they these little balls are just as sweet and cute.

    The next day in Scotland is now even more significant than it was in the summer. I always admired Her Majesty, Queen Elizabeth, and looking back on our visit to HMY Brittania evokes bright memories of her life and reign which sadly ended this September. The Yacht was in service between 1954 and 1997 and is now a five-star attraction in Edinburgh. When it was decommissioned, it was the only time I ever saw Her Majesty shed a tear in public, it was that dear to her. A walk through it gives you a sense of closeness, dare I say intimacy, with the longest reigning monarch in Europe. Her simple yet elegant style permeates every corner of this ship. Her spirit lives on in our hearts and most palpably in the rooms of this vessel.

Her Majesty's Quarters

    We returned to London, our starting point, via Stratford-on-Avon and York (see post titled Rule, Brittania!). With a twinge of sadness that our epic journey was ending, we made one last stop in Jedburgh, a small Scottish town on the border with England founded in the 9th century. Its skyline is dominated by the ruins of the Augustinian Jedburgh Abbey built in the 12th century. 

    

    Despite the nostalgia quickly settling within us, our hearts were grateful for the opportunity to explore these magical lands and for all the unforgettable moments we were taking with us. See you on our next adventure!

Erin go Bragh! (Ireland Forever!)

The second leg of our Grand Tour this summer took us to Ireland, justifiably known as the Emerald Isle. It is here perhaps that I went the craziest taking pictures. Once back on dry land after crossing the Irish Sea, we settled in Waterford, established by Reginald the Viking in the early 900s, and famous since the 1700s for being home to the fine crystal that bears the city's name.

    We stayed at the Tower Hotel, aptly named as it stands just about twenty feet from the short but impressive Reginald's Tower. Built sometime between the 13th and 14th centuries, it was used at different times as a mint, a prison, and a military storehouse.

    Our first evening in Ireland was a foreshadowing of the fun this country has to offer. I don't think there are any unhappy Irishmen or Irishwomen. Everyone is in a perpetual party mood. For dinner at Hobson's, housed within the hotel, we sat at long tables that encourage sociability. Our end was populated by people from Michigan, New Jersey, and Georgia, all (except me) eagerly awaiting the spectacle at the end of the meal that is the preparation of an Irish Coffee. 

    For an appetizer, I tried the smoked salmon rolls with cream and roasted vegetables, a subtle and light start that stimulates your appetite for the heartier main course, a Guinness-glazed flat beef steak in the company of the ubiquitous Yorkshire pudding.

    The next morning was a shopper's delight. We visited the iconic Waterford crystal factory to see magic in the making, how a block of icy glass turns into a masterpiece. And of course, they have a magnificent showroom where you can indulge in purchasing pieces that range from a votive candle holder (that's what I bought) to Cinderella's carriage carved in precise detail.

    Feeling spoiled and sophisticated with my Waterford purchase, I was ready for our next stop at Kilkenny Castle. Built in the 1190s by Richard de Clare, 2nd Earl of Pembroke, nicknamed Strongbow, the castle was part of the town's fortification system. In the 15th century it belonged to the Butlers of Ormond, a powerful ruling family of which Lady Margaret Butler was a member. Lady Margaret was the wife of Sir William Boleyn and consequently the paternal grandmother of Anne Boleyn, second wife of King Henry VIII.

   

     After indulging in a supersized eclair in the castle bakery, we said goodbye to bucolic Kilkenny and readied ourselves for some boisterous fun. Dublin is a bustling, happy city where people work hard and play harder. Our Hilton hotel was ten steps across from the Sean O'Casey Bridge, an ultra modern structure over the River Leiffy  that provides opportunity for a lovely promenade to the south side of the quays, the shopping side, the nightlife side. My ultimate goal as I walked the lively streets was to find The Temple Bar, established in the 1800s (although the building has been there since the 1600s) and perhaps the most iconic pub in Dublin. It takes up an entire corner and adorns the street with flower boxes that cascade down the building on all sides, it's painted black, lipstick red, and gold, and it's always busy, no matter the time of day. I wonder if it has something to do with the over 450 types of rare whiskey available, the largest collection in all of Ireland?

    During our search for The Temple Bar, we stopped at Cloud Nine, a gelato joint that delighted with its outstanding performance of that elusive authentic creamy, flavorful quality that sets Italian ice cream so far apart from any other, at least for me. 

    Dublin provided one of the most entertaining evenings I've spent EVER. At Taylor's Irish Cabaret we were immersed into the Irish experience. The dining hall is an enormous medieval barn, thatched roof and all, with long tables, all strategically placed to get the best view of the stage. An award-winning group of Irish dancers enthrall with their skilled stepdance, and a trio of superb Irish musicians regale us with happy jigs and beloved Irish ballads that can uplift you, amuse you, or bring a tear to your eye. And all this while enjoying a dish of hearty Irish Stew and all the ale and whiskey you dare to consume.

    On our way north in expectation of crossing the North Channel into Scotland, we stopped in Belfast, the capital of Northern Ireland, and known to most as the historical center of sectarian conflict between Catholics and Protestants. Although its past has been violent and polarizing at times, on this day we marveled at its stunning Victorian architecture represented by Belfast City Hall, a sprawling beauty that grew from the Old Town Hall when Queen Victoria awarded Belfast city status in the 19th century.

    We said goodbye to lovely Ireland, land of saints and scholars, with wonderful memories of laughter and amazing sites. Next stop, Scotland!

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Rule, Brittania!

After 2 years of postponing a trip dedicated to John's introduction, and hopefully immersion, into his ancestry, we finally took action and crossed the pond. I say this was primarily for John, but who are we kidding? I'm a passionate anglophile and royalist, so my personal agenda was smeared all over our adventure. I'll own that.

    This journey took us to so many fascinating places, it would make for a saga more than a blog post. So, I've decided to break it into three installments- Britain, Ireland, and Scotland. 

    London is twice the geographical size of New York City, and it would take me at least six months, exploring every day, eight hours a day, to discover all its charms and secrets. It's an ever-evolving town while holding on with pride to its history. I can't imagine anyone ever being bored in London.

    We stayed at the stunning Park Plaza Westminster facing Big Ben and the Houses of Parliament squarely. We could see the iconic skyline from every window and glass wall in the ultra modern hotel. To add to the whimsy, it was one of a few hotels welcoming Wimbledon participants, and the decor incorporated a tennis motif.

    Upon arriving, there wasn't much time to wallow on jet lag because we had tickets to Westminster Abbey. On my first trip to London, I missed it due to some clerical conference taking place that precluded tourist visits. I was not about to miss it this time. You hear about it, you read about it, you see it on TV, but to actually enter its doors and walk through it, you remain awestruck for a prolonged period of time. Whether it's the history, the architecture, or the spirituality, it will get you. You can't help but feel reverence for the Abbey in one way or another.

Queen Elizabeth I

High Altar

    For me, it brought up all the feelings. It is like no church I've ever visited. While accutely aware that it's the seat of Henry VIII's Anglican faith, the history contained in its memorials and 3000 tombs overwhelmed me. In addition to the famous and infamous of history, many areas of academia are honored—science, literature, music, nearly every area in which man has excelled is represented. And then there is the classic Gothic architecture with its pointed arches, ribbed vaulting, rose windows, and flying buttresses sumptuously displayed in its nave and radiating chapels.

Sir Isaac Newton

Poets' Corner

    After an eight-hour flight and a few hours exploring the Abbey, we felt exhausted but accomplished and deserving of a classic English pub experience. Bar hopping would be an event on a whole other level in this world of pubs, but we're not hoppers, so we considered the endless choices, each beautiful and enticing, with baskets of hanging flowers and whimsical names, and many with respectable places in history. We picked St. Stephen's Tavern, established in 1875 and a favorite haunt of political notables, including Sir Winston Churchill, for it's proximity to the Houses of Parliament. Just a five minute walk from our hotel, a quick dinner in the right atmosphere, and the obvious, dare I say clichéd, choice of meal of Fish and Chips seemed a proper ending to our first day. There's a reason it's the most popular food in England. They know how to capture that natural flavor of cod with just the right seasoning, and the fries, or chips as they call them, are meaty on the inside with a crunchy exterior. And they're never skimpy on the portions.

 

    Our first full day came with unusually bright sunshine and perfect temperatures in the mid 60s to 70s. We began with a trip to that Mecca of royalty, Windsor Castle. Queen Elizabeth's London digs date back to the 11th century. Built by William the Conqueror, it has been home to 39 monarchs. Buckingham Palace may be the office, but when Her Majesty wants to impress, she'll summon you to Windsor. The town of Windsor itself has a fairytale feel to it with its quaint boutiques, tea rooms, and ice cream shops.

    That evening, we cruised the Thames. It's a sublime treat to catch the London skyline under a purple summer sunset at nearly 10:00 pm. And to end this glorious English summer day, dinner at The Nag's Head, a pub in posh Covent Garden, where we shared a table with people from India, Taiwan, and France. I've always said I'm a citizen of the world, and this dinner made me feel as such. The Nag's Head was built in the early 1800s, and it was originally patronized by the stable hands of the upscale homes that began to pop up in nearby Belgravia. Today, it's busy and quirky, particularly when you hear stories about its owner, Len Cole, who has been known to throw people out for talking on their cell phones or hanging their coats behind chairs rather than the hooks provided throughout the establishment. Oh, and also for ordering chips (unless it's with fish). No one seems to know why. Patrons find it most entertaining.

    Pub food has undergone a transformation. It's no longer nuts and pickled eggs to go with your ale. In the 1970s, the menus began offering steak and chips, Shepherd's pie, and basket meals, and in the early 90s, pubs began to elevate their product to dishes carefully designed with quality ingredients comparable to the best restaurants.

    This evening, our table ordered the ubiquitous fish and chips and the Steak and Ale pie, British beef braised with onions and ale presented in an elegant bread covering and served with potato mash and a subtle gravy. It was hearty, flavorful, and prepared with care.

    The next day took us bright and early to Stonehenge, the most well-known prehistoric structure in Europe and a UNESCO World Heritage site dating back to the Neolithic age, between 4000 and 2500 BCE. Crows almost the size of chickens, their cawing echoing through Salisbury plain, a chilly mist, all add to the mysticism surrounding this remarkable monument believed to be an ancient temple aligned with what the builders believed to be the  movements of the sun.

    A chilly rain fell on us on our way out, so we stopped at the site cafeteria to dry out and for some ginger beer and the aptly named Stonehenge Rock Cakes, a rough-looking treat with a crunchy exterior but sweet and doughy inside. 

    The clouds parted, and the sun shone upon Bath, its resplendent abbey welcoming all to the largest city in the county of Somerset and named after its Roman baths. The baths were built between 60 and 70 AD, and consequently a settlement called Aquae Sulis emerged, now Bath. The structure is remarkably well preserved and includes four main features, the Great Bath, the Temple of Sulis Minerva, the Sacred Spring, and a museum.

                                

    After our time travel back to Roman times, we had a light lunch at The Cornish Bakery, twenty steps from the entrance to Bath Abbey. Something as mundane as lunch becomes sublime if in the presence of magnificence. I ordered a traditional Cornish cheese and onion pasty and a strawberry lemonade, and John had a bacon and cheese turnover with a Capuccino. 

    The next leg of our adventure took us into Cardiff, the capital and largest city in Wales (land of the dragon) and the eleventh largest city in the United Kingdom. Here, I met friendly people and learned about lovespoons, a Welsh tradition dating back 300 years and started by sailors who whould carve them from wood and present them as romantic gifts. And I discovered Cardiff Castle, a medieval beauty built in the eleventh century by Norman invaders on top of a Roman fort. We had a little time to sit in the courtyard and reflect on the splendor and drama of English history and enjoy the crisp weather before heading to Pembroke Dock for our crossing into Ireland on a feisty Irish Sea. 

She said, "Welcome to Wales, we're glad you came to visit."

    After our adventures in Ireland and Scotland (see two upcoming blogs), we reentered England by way of Stratford-Upon-Avon and York. Midway we took a little break at a rest stop, and I indulged in all the English snack items I could safely ingest—another lovely pasty, a bubblegummy, tutti-frutti, citrusy, cream soda called IRN BRU (no one has been able to properly describe its distinct flavor), and of course, some Cadbury chocolate. It was all worth the sugar rush.

    Stratford is a small town yet well-known for its place in history and literature. It's the birthplace of the most famous writer in the world, without argument, William Shakespeare. Our first stop was the childhood home of Anne Hathaway, the Bard's wife, located about a mile and a half from Stratford proper, in a town called Shottery. It's a charming thatched cottage built as early as the mid-1400, surrounded by a colorful garden, and home to thirteen generations of Hathaways until 1911.

    Before we paid a visit to Shakespeare's childhood home, we sat for afternoon tea, or Bailey's Hot Chocolate for me, at Benson's, just ten steps from the Bard's door. Think about it—scones, crumpets, clotted cream, and jam with a view of William Shakespeare's house. You can't get more English than that.

    We also made a stop at Hadrian's Wall, a fortification built between 122 and 128 AD to defend the Roman border in Brittania from "troublesome tribes to the north", meaning the Scots.

    York is the historic county town in North Yorkshire. Founded in 71 AD, it was once the capital of a Roman province and later of the kingdom of Northumbria. The historic center of York is considered a conservation area and as such, a walk along its narrow streets within medieval walls takes you back in time. York Minster, one of the most breathtaking cathedrals in Europe, dates back to the seventh century and presides proudly over all of downtown York. One of the many narrow streets that crisscross the area is called The Shambles, and although you would think it appropriate by looking at its leaning and sagging buildings, the name actually comes from an old English term meaning something like "slaughterhouse" or "meat market". Some of the hooks where carcasses were hung can still be seen in some buildings.

    For our last dinner in Britain at the Yorkshire Bar & Grill, I tried the delightful Haddock cake with poached egg and parsley velouté, as elegant in taste as in name, and the Yorkshire pudding with onion sauce. Always a British favorite, the onion sauce added flavor, moistness, and interest to this doughy treat.

    We returned to the Park Plaza hotel in London as our English/ Welsh/ Irish/ Scottish romp came to an end, but I will continue reliving it in my next blog. See you in Ireland!

View from one of our room windows

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