Barcelona: City of Contrasts

Nestled between several mountain ranges and the Mediterranean Sea, Barcelona is one of the trendiest cities in the world. Although it's the kingdom of  Gaudi's modernisme architecture, this city is in fact an eclectic mix of Romanesque, Gothic, contemporary Art, and dynamic street art with notable mentions for the impressive Picasso museum and public mosaics by Joan Miró.

Casa Malagrida

                                 

But, as in most urban, cosmopolitan cities, there is an underbelly of poverty and crime juxtaposed over the sophistication and culture. Sadly, we've seen hunger and need in many cities we've visited, but the man that approached our table had an ancient hunger, one beyond begging, one that moves a person to walk with determination toward a table of restaurant patrons, grab a fistful of food from a plate, and devour it while walking away toward the next table. This is need that supersedes fear of irate customers, or retaliation, or even of intervention by the authorities. It's the most basic, primitive need, and nothing is stronger.

As we continued our exploration of this polarizing city, the must-see Sagrada Familia offers an awe-inspiring moment and a chance to live history in real time. Begun in 1882, the basilica is architect Antonio Gaudi's greatest legacy. At the time of his death in 1926, less than a quarter of the project had been completed. It is now considered the world's tallest church. Gaudi's unique combination of Gothic and Catalan Modernism styles pushed the boundaries of architectural design and had an audacious influence on Art Nouveau. 

Sagrada Familia Basilica

We turned to continue taking in the massive presence of the cathedral and were gifted with a little surprise with a lot of sweetness. Torrons Vicens is a family business dating back to 1775 and specializing in artisanal turrón or nougat, a traditional Spanish Christmas treat. We found ourselves surrounded by what seemed an infinite variety of flavors and confections to satisfy any whim. Of course, I spent a respectable amount of souvenir money at this world of wonder.

Our second day in Barcelona began with breakfast at an authentic Venezuelan bakery, a nostalgic moment for me filled with delights I hadn't seen for decades since my ten years living there. Bendito Pecado reintroduced me to cachitos (akin to a toasted croissant filled with meat and cheese), arepas (a Venezuelan staple and bread of choice), tequeños (salty white cheese wrapped in little fingers of sweet fried dough), pan de jamón (traditionally a Christmas sweet bread log filled with ham, bacon, raisins, and olives), hallacas (dough filled with shredded chicken and beef stew and wrapped in banana leaves), and pabellón, in my view the national dish, a combination of shredded beef, rice, and black beans accompanied by fried plantains. Although I didn't indulge in every item offered, to see them all together in one place felt like a happy reunion with long lost friends.

After our hearty breakfast, we walked over to the central plaza of Passeig de Lluís Companys to behold the splendor and majesty of the Arc de Triomf. Completed in 1888 and built in reddish brick, it's the most visually striking of all the well-known memorial arches of the world, in this blogger's opinion.

Arc de Triomf

Dinner was a celebration of multiple birthdays in our small group, and it was an evening to remember. We took a fascinating walk along the Passeig de Gracia, the Rodeo Drive of Barcelona, if you will, and marveled at the luxury brand shops and magnificent masterpieces of architecture, including Casa Batlló and Casa Malagrida.

Casa Batlló

El Nacional is an innovative gastronomic multispace comprised of four specialized restaurants for meat, fish, tapas, and a fast deli. Four bars also offer beers, preserves, wines, cold cuts, oysters, and cocktails. All the flavors of Barcelona in one place for your enjoyment!

We opted for La Braseria, the section devoted to meats. After ordering the obligatory sangria and other libations, we sampled the silkiness of Secreto Ibérico, the heavily marbled, most tender cut of pork often referred to as "Wagyu of pork", and my picky husband made a new friend. Tender, flavorful lamb chops were also present, but Secreto's charisma overshadowed everything else at our table, including the main carb, Barcelona-style roast beef cannelloni with béchamel and tomato sauce.

This versatile spot also houses the cutest gelato stand with a surprising selection of flavors for its size, and when it comes time to pick dessert, I always say why do anything else if you can do gelato.

As is always my feeling when I travel, my time in Barcelona wasn't nearly enough to savor this unique city as I would want. It's a place that boldly shows light and dark, it's sublime and scary at the same time, it's unapologetically human, brutal and beautiful.

 

Mykonos: A Pretty Girl in the Aegean

    Mykonos is well-known for its dynamic nightlife, but this enchanting Greek island offers many delights to those of us with a quieter lifestyle. Its characteristic whitewashed Cycladic architecture, glorious Mediterranean blue as background, and vibrant flora give the sensation of walking through a postcard. 

Life Giving Spring Orthodox Metropolitan Church Mykonos, Greece

    Mykonos Town, or Chora, is a deliberate labyrinth that shelters the walkers from the strong and frequent ocean breezes and provides endless options for high-end shopping and dining as well as the delightful Little Venice. Built primarily in the 18th century by wealthy merchants and captains, today its quaint overhanging balconies and historical buildings have been converted to fashionable bars, cafés, and shops.

And speaking of wind, no visit to Mykonos is complete without spending some time walking around its iconic windmills and taking in the views from atop their hill. Seven of the sixteen currently on the island sit on this mount. Of the sixteen, most were originally built by the Venetians in the 16th century, hence the proximity of Little Venice, although some date to the early 20th century.

    Sights, sounds, and aromas waft through this cozy town and invite you to immerse yourself into all that you perceive. After the short climb to walk around the windmills and taking in the stunning views from the hill, a fun bistro called Nice and Easy presented us with an unexpected al fresco lunch feast by the sea. Grilled chicken skewers, fried spring rolls with feta dipping sauce, cute mini burger sliders, vegetable patties with beet puree, cheese turnovers, falafel squares with cherry tomatoes and feta chunks. And for dessert, Greek yogurt with walnuts and honey accompanied by the freshest, sweetest, most succulent assortment of fruit. How could you walk anymore after all that food? you ask. Very leisurely, I tell you.

What better opportunity to slow down the pace after a satisfying meal than exploring the abundant 

museums in town as an excellent digestif activity. If you are a contemporary art enthusiast, Mykonos 

has a few galleries that feature works by some of the best artists working today. 

The Little Tin Man by Coderch and Malavia

    We strolled around the Aegean Maritime Museum, a lovely 19th century building devoted to the preservation of the close relationship between the Greeks and the sea throughout the centuries.

   

    There are 227 inhabited Greek islands to visit, and I'm sure each one has charms, beauties, and diversions to explore and enjoy. But for me, Mykonos has it all, and even when crowded, it gives a vibe of serenity and contentment that fills me with gratitude.

Auld Lang Syne

I will confess that Scotland was not at the top of my priority list when choosing the itinerary for our trip, yet as often happens in life, it turned out to be the most memorable of experiences.

Edinburgh Castle

    We arrived at our hotel gloriously located in the theatre district and right next to the exquisite Theatre Royal Bar, a place I will always hold dear because it's where I worked through my fear of the much maligned Haggis. The decor is all an homage to theatre with walls covered in posters of different titles surrounding an impressive mahogany bar. In the seating area lives a majestic fireplace that evokes chilly nights spent in this space, dressed in woolen clothing and sipping your favorite libation in front of flickering flames. A larger sitting area in the back feels more like a restaurant, and here is where my foodie experience happened.

    Their Haggis Filo Parcels in whiskey sauce couldn't be less intimidating. These adorable philo pockets containing the savory treat originally made with oatmeal, animal offal, suet, onions, and seasonings. However, haggis has evolved into a variety of versions that can include lamb, pork, beef, and venison. There's even vegan versions of this national delicacy. I didn't ask what version I was getting, and I was expecting the crumbly sausage and bread texture that had often been described to me. The stuffing in these little pockets, though, tasted and felt more like a meat mousse, creamy with a bit of texture, savory and subtle. I thought I would be bathing each bite in the whiskey sauce to attenuate any unpleasant aftertaste, but no need. The sauce was delicious too, but those little Parcels stood proudly on their own.

    I also tried the Elderberry Lemonade and it's my new favorite. Softly tangy and sweet with a gentle roll of bubbles— so refreshing, so delicate. And then,Sticky Toffee Pudding, a moist sponge cake with the deep flavor of dates lavishly drizzled with toffee sauce and served warm with vanilla ice cream. There's a lot of sad things going on in this world, but this treat just wants to make you utterly happy, if only for a few minutes.

    Our first adventure in Scotland was a game-changer for me. While Windsor Castle will always be possibly the most imposing of medieval structures because of size, history, and relevancy in today's royal world, Edinburgh Castle takes the crown as most magical and mystical. Set upon a formidable rock with breathtaking views of Edinburgh, this castle will transport you as soon as you walk up the hill and through its massive doors flanked by William Wallace and Robert the Bruce, iconic heroes of Scottish history.

Robert the Bruce

William Wallace

    

    If I had to pick a favorite feature of the castle besides the stunning views, I would have to say it was Queen (Saint) Margaret's Chapel. Built in the 12th century by King David I, Margaret's fourth son, it is the oldest surviving building in Scotland.

    A good old-fashioned tour revealed more marvels of the city. On prestigious Heriot Row, I took notice of famed Number 17, once the home of Robert Louis Stevenson. The Palace of Holyroodhouse is the British monarch's official residence while in Scotland, but us royal watchers know they much prefer their home in the Highlands, Balmoral. The Hub has to be the most striking site in Edinburgh. Its Gothic presence is indeed the highest point in the city skyline. Built in 1850 to house the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland, today it's an arts and events center and home to Edinburgh International Festival.

    A day rich with the sights and sounds of this historic city can only end with a swanky meal at Gusto Italian, a refined Sicilian restaurant and one of the best restaurants in Edinburgh. My choice of appetizer was Hummus, served with music bread — and Italian flatbread resembling parchment paper—and pumpkin seeds, all put together in a creative architectural design. My entree was the Pan-Roasted Chicken Breast with Mushroom and Tarragon served with crispy polenta, also a well-executed dish with all its flavor promises kept, especially the polenta. But my smile widened at dessert time. Bombolinis are dough balls served with Chantilly cream, chocolate and Biscoff sauces, and fruits of the forest sorbet. The name sounds like something an Italian nonna would call her grandbabies, and they these little balls are just as sweet and cute.

    The next day in Scotland is now even more significant than it was in the summer. I always admired Her Majesty, Queen Elizabeth, and looking back on our visit to HMY Brittania evokes bright memories of her life and reign which sadly ended this September. The Yacht was in service between 1954 and 1997 and is now a five-star attraction in Edinburgh. When it was decommissioned, it was the only time I ever saw Her Majesty shed a tear in public, it was that dear to her. A walk through it gives you a sense of closeness, dare I say intimacy, with the longest reigning monarch in Europe. Her simple yet elegant style permeates every corner of this ship. Her spirit lives on in our hearts and most palpably in the rooms of this vessel.

Her Majesty's Quarters

    We returned to London, our starting point, via Stratford-on-Avon and York (see post titled Rule, Brittania!). With a twinge of sadness that our epic journey was ending, we made one last stop in Jedburgh, a small Scottish town on the border with England founded in the 9th century. Its skyline is dominated by the ruins of the Augustinian Jedburgh Abbey built in the 12th century. 

    

    Despite the nostalgia quickly settling within us, our hearts were grateful for the opportunity to explore these magical lands and for all the unforgettable moments we were taking with us. See you on our next adventure!