Mykonos: A Pretty Girl in the Aegean

    Mykonos is well-known for its dynamic nightlife, but this enchanting Greek island offers many delights to those of us with a quieter lifestyle. Its characteristic whitewashed Cycladic architecture, glorious Mediterranean blue as background, and vibrant flora give the sensation of walking through a postcard. 

Life Giving Spring Orthodox Metropolitan Church Mykonos, Greece

    Mykonos Town, or Chora, is a deliberate labyrinth that shelters the walkers from the strong and frequent ocean breezes and provides endless options for high-end shopping and dining as well as the delightful Little Venice. Built primarily in the 18th century by wealthy merchants and captains, today its quaint overhanging balconies and historical buildings have been converted to fashionable bars, cafés, and shops.

And speaking of wind, no visit to Mykonos is complete without spending some time walking around its iconic windmills and taking in the views from atop their hill. Seven of the sixteen currently on the island sit on this mount. Of the sixteen, most were originally built by the Venetians in the 16th century, hence the proximity of Little Venice, although some date to the early 20th century.

    Sights, sounds, and aromas waft through this cozy town and invite you to immerse yourself into all that you perceive. After the short climb to walk around the windmills and taking in the stunning views from the hill, a fun bistro called Nice and Easy presented us with an unexpected al fresco lunch feast by the sea. Grilled chicken skewers, fried spring rolls with feta dipping sauce, cute mini burger sliders, vegetable patties with beet puree, cheese turnovers, falafel squares with cherry tomatoes and feta chunks. And for dessert, Greek yogurt with walnuts and honey accompanied by the freshest, sweetest, most succulent assortment of fruit. How could you walk anymore after all that food? you ask. Very leisurely, I tell you.

What better opportunity to slow down the pace after a satisfying meal than exploring the abundant 

museums in town as an excellent digestif activity. If you are a contemporary art enthusiast, Mykonos 

has a few galleries that feature works by some of the best artists working today. 

The Little Tin Man by Coderch and Malavia

    We strolled around the Aegean Maritime Museum, a lovely 19th century building devoted to the preservation of the close relationship between the Greeks and the sea throughout the centuries.

   

    There are 227 inhabited Greek islands to visit, and I'm sure each one has charms, beauties, and diversions to explore and enjoy. But for me, Mykonos has it all, and even when crowded, it gives a vibe of serenity and contentment that fills me with gratitude.

Auld Lang Syne

I will confess that Scotland was not at the top of my priority list when choosing the itinerary for our trip, yet as often happens in life, it turned out to be the most memorable of experiences.

Edinburgh Castle

    We arrived at our hotel gloriously located in the theatre district and right next to the exquisite Theatre Royal Bar, a place I will always hold dear because it's where I worked through my fear of the much maligned Haggis. The decor is all an homage to theatre with walls covered in posters of different titles surrounding an impressive mahogany bar. In the seating area lives a majestic fireplace that evokes chilly nights spent in this space, dressed in woolen clothing and sipping your favorite libation in front of flickering flames. A larger sitting area in the back feels more like a restaurant, and here is where my foodie experience happened.

    Their Haggis Filo Parcels in whiskey sauce couldn't be less intimidating. These adorable philo pockets containing the savory treat originally made with oatmeal, animal offal, suet, onions, and seasonings. However, haggis has evolved into a variety of versions that can include lamb, pork, beef, and venison. There's even vegan versions of this national delicacy. I didn't ask what version I was getting, and I was expecting the crumbly sausage and bread texture that had often been described to me. The stuffing in these little pockets, though, tasted and felt more like a meat mousse, creamy with a bit of texture, savory and subtle. I thought I would be bathing each bite in the whiskey sauce to attenuate any unpleasant aftertaste, but no need. The sauce was delicious too, but those little Parcels stood proudly on their own.

    I also tried the Elderberry Lemonade and it's my new favorite. Softly tangy and sweet with a gentle roll of bubbles— so refreshing, so delicate. And then,Sticky Toffee Pudding, a moist sponge cake with the deep flavor of dates lavishly drizzled with toffee sauce and served warm with vanilla ice cream. There's a lot of sad things going on in this world, but this treat just wants to make you utterly happy, if only for a few minutes.

    Our first adventure in Scotland was a game-changer for me. While Windsor Castle will always be possibly the most imposing of medieval structures because of size, history, and relevancy in today's royal world, Edinburgh Castle takes the crown as most magical and mystical. Set upon a formidable rock with breathtaking views of Edinburgh, this castle will transport you as soon as you walk up the hill and through its massive doors flanked by William Wallace and Robert the Bruce, iconic heroes of Scottish history.

Robert the Bruce

William Wallace

    

    If I had to pick a favorite feature of the castle besides the stunning views, I would have to say it was Queen (Saint) Margaret's Chapel. Built in the 12th century by King David I, Margaret's fourth son, it is the oldest surviving building in Scotland.

    A good old-fashioned tour revealed more marvels of the city. On prestigious Heriot Row, I took notice of famed Number 17, once the home of Robert Louis Stevenson. The Palace of Holyroodhouse is the British monarch's official residence while in Scotland, but us royal watchers know they much prefer their home in the Highlands, Balmoral. The Hub has to be the most striking site in Edinburgh. Its Gothic presence is indeed the highest point in the city skyline. Built in 1850 to house the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland, today it's an arts and events center and home to Edinburgh International Festival.

    A day rich with the sights and sounds of this historic city can only end with a swanky meal at Gusto Italian, a refined Sicilian restaurant and one of the best restaurants in Edinburgh. My choice of appetizer was Hummus, served with music bread — and Italian flatbread resembling parchment paper—and pumpkin seeds, all put together in a creative architectural design. My entree was the Pan-Roasted Chicken Breast with Mushroom and Tarragon served with crispy polenta, also a well-executed dish with all its flavor promises kept, especially the polenta. But my smile widened at dessert time. Bombolinis are dough balls served with Chantilly cream, chocolate and Biscoff sauces, and fruits of the forest sorbet. The name sounds like something an Italian nonna would call her grandbabies, and they these little balls are just as sweet and cute.

    The next day in Scotland is now even more significant than it was in the summer. I always admired Her Majesty, Queen Elizabeth, and looking back on our visit to HMY Brittania evokes bright memories of her life and reign which sadly ended this September. The Yacht was in service between 1954 and 1997 and is now a five-star attraction in Edinburgh. When it was decommissioned, it was the only time I ever saw Her Majesty shed a tear in public, it was that dear to her. A walk through it gives you a sense of closeness, dare I say intimacy, with the longest reigning monarch in Europe. Her simple yet elegant style permeates every corner of this ship. Her spirit lives on in our hearts and most palpably in the rooms of this vessel.

Her Majesty's Quarters

    We returned to London, our starting point, via Stratford-on-Avon and York (see post titled Rule, Brittania!). With a twinge of sadness that our epic journey was ending, we made one last stop in Jedburgh, a small Scottish town on the border with England founded in the 9th century. Its skyline is dominated by the ruins of the Augustinian Jedburgh Abbey built in the 12th century. 

    

    Despite the nostalgia quickly settling within us, our hearts were grateful for the opportunity to explore these magical lands and for all the unforgettable moments we were taking with us. See you on our next adventure!

Erin go Bragh! (Ireland Forever!)

The second leg of our Grand Tour this summer took us to Ireland, justifiably known as the Emerald Isle. It is here perhaps that I went the craziest taking pictures. Once back on dry land after crossing the Irish Sea, we settled in Waterford, established by Reginald the Viking in the early 900s, and famous since the 1700s for being home to the fine crystal that bears the city's name.

    We stayed at the Tower Hotel, aptly named as it stands just about twenty feet from the short but impressive Reginald's Tower. Built sometime between the 13th and 14th centuries, it was used at different times as a mint, a prison, and a military storehouse.

    Our first evening in Ireland was a foreshadowing of the fun this country has to offer. I don't think there are any unhappy Irishmen or Irishwomen. Everyone is in a perpetual party mood. For dinner at Hobson's, housed within the hotel, we sat at long tables that encourage sociability. Our end was populated by people from Michigan, New Jersey, and Georgia, all (except me) eagerly awaiting the spectacle at the end of the meal that is the preparation of an Irish Coffee. 

    For an appetizer, I tried the smoked salmon rolls with cream and roasted vegetables, a subtle and light start that stimulates your appetite for the heartier main course, a Guinness-glazed flat beef steak in the company of the ubiquitous Yorkshire pudding.

    The next morning was a shopper's delight. We visited the iconic Waterford crystal factory to see magic in the making, how a block of icy glass turns into a masterpiece. And of course, they have a magnificent showroom where you can indulge in purchasing pieces that range from a votive candle holder (that's what I bought) to Cinderella's carriage carved in precise detail.

    Feeling spoiled and sophisticated with my Waterford purchase, I was ready for our next stop at Kilkenny Castle. Built in the 1190s by Richard de Clare, 2nd Earl of Pembroke, nicknamed Strongbow, the castle was part of the town's fortification system. In the 15th century it belonged to the Butlers of Ormond, a powerful ruling family of which Lady Margaret Butler was a member. Lady Margaret was the wife of Sir William Boleyn and consequently the paternal grandmother of Anne Boleyn, second wife of King Henry VIII.

   

     After indulging in a supersized eclair in the castle bakery, we said goodbye to bucolic Kilkenny and readied ourselves for some boisterous fun. Dublin is a bustling, happy city where people work hard and play harder. Our Hilton hotel was ten steps across from the Sean O'Casey Bridge, an ultra modern structure over the River Leiffy  that provides opportunity for a lovely promenade to the south side of the quays, the shopping side, the nightlife side. My ultimate goal as I walked the lively streets was to find The Temple Bar, established in the 1800s (although the building has been there since the 1600s) and perhaps the most iconic pub in Dublin. It takes up an entire corner and adorns the street with flower boxes that cascade down the building on all sides, it's painted black, lipstick red, and gold, and it's always busy, no matter the time of day. I wonder if it has something to do with the over 450 types of rare whiskey available, the largest collection in all of Ireland?

    During our search for The Temple Bar, we stopped at Cloud Nine, a gelato joint that delighted with its outstanding performance of that elusive authentic creamy, flavorful quality that sets Italian ice cream so far apart from any other, at least for me. 

    Dublin provided one of the most entertaining evenings I've spent EVER. At Taylor's Irish Cabaret we were immersed into the Irish experience. The dining hall is an enormous medieval barn, thatched roof and all, with long tables, all strategically placed to get the best view of the stage. An award-winning group of Irish dancers enthrall with their skilled stepdance, and a trio of superb Irish musicians regale us with happy jigs and beloved Irish ballads that can uplift you, amuse you, or bring a tear to your eye. And all this while enjoying a dish of hearty Irish Stew and all the ale and whiskey you dare to consume.

    On our way north in expectation of crossing the North Channel into Scotland, we stopped in Belfast, the capital of Northern Ireland, and known to most as the historical center of sectarian conflict between Catholics and Protestants. Although its past has been violent and polarizing at times, on this day we marveled at its stunning Victorian architecture represented by Belfast City Hall, a sprawling beauty that grew from the Old Town Hall when Queen Victoria awarded Belfast city status in the 19th century.

    We said goodbye to lovely Ireland, land of saints and scholars, with wonderful memories of laughter and amazing sites. Next stop, Scotland!

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