Morton's The Steakhouse

In the exclusive world of iconic steakhouses, Morton's occupies a significant position. Miami Spice is a marketing strategy that allows patrons to experience the ultimate in fine dining at a reasonable price. The August-September season is also an opportunity for exclusive restaurants such as Morton's to make a good impression on first-time customers that may not have the financial wherewithal for such indulgence too frequently. I fall into that category.

   

     Two stories of impeccably decorated dining areas, all in black, white, and metallics make for an elegant atmosphere. We are greeted by an oversized onion roll and whipped unsalted butter. The bread was a bit dry, but I had an intriguing cocktail to help me wash it down. I ordered the Pumpkin Spice Mule, a rather cloying concoction of Tito's vodka, pumpkin puree, ginger syrup, and pumpkin pie spice with a cinnamon rim. I rejected the rim immediately. The dusty texture and the overwhelming flavor distracted me from the drink itself. Once I focused on the sickly sweet mixture, I found myself loving it and yet wondering if I'd be able to finish it. It was that potent. John is on a Stella Artois season right now, so today he didn't venture into the unknown.

     Our first of three courses began with the Baked Five Onion Soup for John and the Morton's Salad for me, a mixture of iceberg and romaine lettuce, blue cheese dressing, egg, and anchovies. John's soup was rich in sweet onion flavor. My salad was tossed in the perfect amount of blue cheese dressing with some hard boiled egg sprinkled on it, and one anchovy. It was a small but disappointing detail in an otherwise satisfying meal.
   

For the main course, John ordered the center cut filet mignon with a side of creamed corn. I ordered the Chicken Christopher, robust chicken paillards crusty with savory breading and wearing a subtle beurre blanc. Every bite offered an ideal balance of flavor and texture- meaty, crispy, and silky.

     My dish came with sour cream mashed potatoes. Reading the item on the menu didn't thrill me, but I have to admit that carefully whipped potatoes with just the right amount of butter and sour cream is just as luxurious as other flashier accompaniments. John's creamed corn, also not an attention-grabber at first glance, provided another opportunity for Morton's to take a standard to another level. The corn wasn't enmeshed in a thick cream, but rather danced in a light, velvety sauce with a subtle but definitive sweetness.

   

     For dessert, we ordered the double chocolate mousse and the Key lime pie. Both were predictable yet satisfying and gave us that sweet punctuation we always seek at the end of a meal.

     For John, a visit to a steakhouse is all about the meat, and he wasn't disappointed. For me, it's all in the details. Morton's is a classic, and their consistency in serving well prepared steakhouse staples is why it lives up to its reputation.

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Old Lisbon

Portuguese food is traditionally simple, hearty, and flavorful. Old Lisbon honors that tradition. When I visit a restaurant that specializes in regional or ethnic food, I like the flavors to transport me to that part of the world, and this unpretentious little spot in bustling South Miami did just that.
     Our appetizers were Bolinhos De Bacalhau, or codfish fritters, and Caldo Verde, a light potato soup with collard greens and Portuguese sausage. John's fritters came with an unexpected side of black-eyed peas that he described as cold and weird, which turned out to be chilled and delicately tossed in olive oil, garlic, and cilantro. Since he didn't want them, and my bowl of Caldo was so generous that I had to take most of it home, I appropriated this lovely and refreshing surprise.

     For entrees, John had the Vitela Assada, or roasted veal, and I the Bacalhau a Gomes de Sa, a heavenly casserole from northern Portungal consisting of shredded codfish, boiled potatoes, eggs, black olives, onions, and significantly enhanced in flavor by olive oil .While my dish had the traditional freshness and flavor I expected, the scent and hearty flavor of the veal was intoxicating. Each bite immediately turned into a savory cloud. It came with rice cooked in chicken broth, which is always a smart way to give rice flavor, and roasted potatoes. I thought it was starch overload, but in the presence of that sublime protein, all can be forgiven.

Photo by Old Lisbon

     Dessert was elegantly simple, and more importantly, well carried out. Pudim de Caramelo con Vinho do Porto is a caramel flan with a density and texture somewhere between the traditional flan and a bread pudding. It sat in a shallow pool of sweet, robust port, which I'm not ashamed to say I scooped with a teaspoon until it was all but gone. A dessert that sits on the digestif is a brilliant idea anytime.
     Portugal has been on my travel radar for a while, and thanks to this meal, it's gone up a few spaces on my priority list.

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