Bulla Gastrobar

Inspired by the currently popular Spanish tapas restaurants, which encourage tasting and sharing a multitude of menu items, Bulla now has several lively locations in the greater Miami area. This space is modern and open and yet so busy this Saturday afternoon, that customers and servers must navigate the area carefully to avoid bumping into each other.

     We begin with a red sangria for me and a Golden Monkey beer for John. My sangria was sweet as candy, just the way I like it, and John's Belgian pale ale was smooth as silk, the way he likes it. We sampled their brunch menu with the Huevos Bulla, a large bowl of homemade potato chips, Serrano ham, potato foam, and truffle oil, all bathed in the succulent goodness of punctured egg yolks. It made for a hearty beginning although undistinguished.

   

     I also ordered the Bikini, a Brioche bun with tetilla cheese, Serrano ham, covered in bechamel sauce, and in the company of a fried egg. Once again, dipping the doughy bread into the thick, rich yolk mixed with the creamy bechamel made the dish gratifying.

     My second course was the Melón con Bellota, a platter of watermelon, Bellota, or acorn ham, heirloom tomatoes, Leonora goat cheese, and a drizzle of truffle honey. All these elements are of the highest quality, and yet on this platter, their blending was dull. There was lots of watermelon and tomatoes, sufficient ham, but the cheese pellets were scant. I don't like it when I get the feeling a restaurant is trying to economize at the expense of my satisfaction.

   

     John tried the Cochinillo Hash, a poached egg, which I inherited, braised shredded pork, and breakfast potatoes. But now that I think about it, this was simply a reconfiguration of his earlier dish, Huevos Bulla.

Photo by Louise S. (Yelp)

    

     A humdrum meal that ends in bright, delicious desserts gets redemption points, and this one ended on a positive note. We ordered the Brioche French toast and the Churros con Chocolate, that traditional Spanish treat of fried dough sticks tossed in sugar. They came with the promised chocolate sauce, but better even, with some thick dulce de leche for dipping. I had to force myself to share with John. The moist and doughy French toast came bejeweled with the freshest, plumpest berries, vanilla-berry syrup, and white chocolate Chantilly cream.

     Although nothing seems unique about this restaurant, their dishes are solid and prepared with high quality ingredients. It was worth a try.

BB Free ©2017

Haven

Treasure Island is a sleepy beach town with an endless strip of oceanfront resorts and vacation rentals. John's Pass Village is a quaint section with a boardwalk full of seafood restaurants, souvenir shops, an ice cream shop every two doors, and even a salt water taffy store with more than one hundred flavors. I had fun filling a bag with flavors such as Mojito, Egg nog, and Belgian Waffle.

   Nearby, the Tampa/St. Petersburg area sparkles with city life that includes some top of the line restaurants. Haven is the sister of iconic Bern's Steakhouse, which I learned requires almost a month of advance reservation. Not getting in was a disappointment that turned into a blessing. Haven delivered an unforgettable tenth anniversary meal for Hubby and me. In fact, with their cheese cellar and cheese bar, I do believe this restaurant may be the mother ship I've been waiting for to take me to the cheese planet where I belong.

     Haven's phenomenal team of Chad Johnson and Courtney Orwig, Executive Chef and Chef de Cuisine, respectively, does mediterranean cuisine with precision and care. Their service is inspired by Spanish tapas where almost all dishes are small, and you tailor a menu for everyone at the table to enjoy. We created the most delectable charcuterie plate worthy of the greatest sensualist. Along with Iberico ham, in my opinion the best ham in the world, we had Finocchiona fennel salami, Prima Donna Gouda, a mild and triple creamy Brillat Savarin from France, and Cambozola blue cheese from Germany. The plate came with glazed California almonds, Cornichons, Medjool date puree, fruit chutney, and seedless red grapes.

   

To go with this voluptuous beginning, I ordered a Pool Boy, a potion containing Soul cachaça, coconut liqueur, blackberry-mint shrub, coconut salted caramel, and lime, which added a hint of tartness to the drink, but it didn't deter from the refreshing and subtle sweetness. John ordered a Legacy 4, a bourbon barrel aged IPA beer in a rich amber color. He expected the bold flavor to leave a slight bitter aftertaste, but he found it acceptable.

   

     By the time our entrees arrived, I was already in love with the surroundings, the impeccable service, and the quality of the meats and cheeses. I could hardly wait for the next course. I ordered the Israeli salad, a refreshing yet rich combination of couscous and chopped cucumbers and tomatoes dressed in extra virgin olive oil and lemon juice. John ordered the colossal Miso Glazed Dry-Aged (for weeks) Ribeye with gloriously sauteed maitake mushrooms and tomatoes. The meat was gently touched by a tamarind, red wine, garlic, ginger, and brown sugar sauce. If this steak is a preview of what to expect at Bern's, I can hardly wait to pay them a visit.

     

As time for dessert approached, I began to get a little sad, not something I usually feel in expectation of sweets. But I knew this delicious evening was coming to an end, and I didn't want to leave. I cheered up quickly, though, when the Dirt Pie arrived, an adorable mason jar with three levels of chocolate intensity, including dark chocolate cremeaux, milk chocolate mousse, topped with coffee "soil", a mint leaf growing out of it, and its own denizen, a gummy worm. I dare you not to smile in the presence of such cuteness.

     It's possible that you can forget nine out of ten meals you eat. You will never forget the Haven experience. And to punctuate the top-notch service at this establishment, after dessert, the bartender delivered glasses of champagne to toast our anniversary. Haven is class all the way!

BB Free ©2017
   

The Olde Pink House

 
The Olde Pink House was a highlight of my time in Savannah.
In 1771, Habersham House in Savannah, Georgia, welcomed its builder and owner, James Habersham, Jr., and served as his family's home until 1800. Its soft brick eventually began to bleed through the plastered walls and changed its color from white to Jamaican pink. The house has had several reincarnations. In 1811 it became Planter's Bank, the first bank in Georgia. General Sherman gave the city to President Lincoln as a Christmas present, and the house became a military headquarters. During the Civil War it was an attorney's office, a bookstore, and a colonial tea room. Finally, in 1992 the Balish family from Charleston, South Carolina, purchased the stately building and returned it to its original grandeur for the enjoyment of all who visit and dine in this most fanciful, mystical structure.
 

     Every room of this mansion is a dining area, each with subtle differences in decor, yet always part of the whole splendid Georgian manor. The main floor is all classic refinement. You just have to feel romantic in this environment. Two other floors provide more dining areas, one called "the ballroom" is long, elegant, and sparkling with chandeliers. Smaller rooms have a slightly more rustic look as the glossy banquet chairs turn into bulky straight back leather ones. The basement is a dark, casual area called Planter's Tavern with exposed aged brick walls, a rough-cut stone fireplace surrounded by large wingback chairs in distressed leather, and a piano for live music. In back of this room is a small intimate space outfitted for a sexy dinner for two surrounded by endless bottles of wine and illuminated only by candlelight. It's actually a wine cellar that originally served as the money vault during the house's reincarnation as a bank. The space is inviting in an eerie way. Some say the house is haunted by the ghost of James Habersham, Jr. If so, I'm pretty sure this is where he hangs out the most. I would.
      I began this journey with a Planter's Punch, a cocktail of Papa's Pilar dark rum, Bacardi rum, pineapple and orange juices, and grenadine. John ordered the Service Brewing Company Compass Rose IPA, a local beer with infusions of grapefruit, pear, and orange peel. He's on a citrus kick these days. Even when he can't identify a flavor, he calls it citrus. My drink was deceptively gentle. It turns out the rums settle at the top and the bottom of the drink, so while I sipped the fruity liquid, it was quite benign, but as I reached the middle of the glass, I felt the heat of the alcohol in every skin pore, in a good way.
   
     The basket of table bread was a promise of good things to come. It contained dainty little corn bread muffins, warm, meaty biscuits, and soft, moist rosemary bread.
     The feast began with the Habersham Platter, a combination of shrimp and grits, a crab cake, and seared scallops. The grits were noteworthy because they came in the shape of fried triangle wedges which provided a crispy covering to the expected creaminess. Crab cakes are tricky for me. Most of the time they are either too bland or contain unwelcome hot spices. This crab cake was perfection, and it came sandwiched between two slices of tangy fried green tomatoes, a popular selection from the menu. And the scallops were thick and juicy, and left you wanting more.

     My entree was the Sweet Potato Ravioli with caramelized Vidalia onions and oyster mushrooms, finished with a pecan cream sauce. The sauce made this dish. It offered a perfect balance of sweet and savory and a distinct flavor that complemented the subtlety of the sweet potato in the pasta.

     If you're a foodie, you know that feeling you get after a luxurious feast that ends in an equally glorious dessert. The House didn't disappoint. Good ole' Southern pecan pie done with flair on a cinnamon pecan crust, with dark chocolate, served warm with vanilla bean ice cream. Let me tell y'all, that dark chocolate gave this pie a vitality of flavor unmatched by any other pecan pie I've ever tried, even others of the chocolate variety.

     Before I wrap, I must take time to write about the service at The House. Our server was amiable but professional and so knowledgeable about the history of the building, she should be a docent and give guided tours. She invited us to roam to our hearts' content after dinner, and when we did, I felt we were in everyone's way as we weaved around the bustle of servers on every floor. I found myself apologizing every few seconds, but every employee was gracious, eager to make space for us to explore, and willing to answer questions with a smile.
     I'm sure I don't have to tell you that I want to go back. I want to live in that house, really. When I return, my problem will be deciding on whether to repeat the luxurious experience of the upstairs restaurant, or explore the dark, mysterious Planter's Tavern in the basement. All my problems should be this delightful.

BB Free ©2017