I will confess that Scotland was not at the top of my priority list when choosing the itinerary for our trip, yet as often happens in life, it turned out to be the most memorable of experiences.
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| Edinburgh Castle |
We arrived at our hotel gloriously located in the theatre district and right next to the exquisite Theatre Royal Bar, a place I will always hold dear because it's where I worked through my fear of the much maligned Haggis. The decor is all an homage to theatre with walls covered in posters of different titles surrounding an impressive mahogany bar. In the seating area lives a majestic fireplace that evokes chilly nights spent in this space, dressed in woolen clothing and sipping your favorite libation in front of flickering flames. A larger sitting area in the back feels more like a restaurant, and here is where my foodie experience happened.
Their Haggis Filo Parcels in whiskey sauce couldn't be less intimidating. These adorable philo pockets containing the savory treat originally made with oatmeal, animal offal, suet, onions, and seasonings. However, haggis has evolved into a variety of versions that can include lamb, pork, beef, and venison. There's even vegan versions of this national delicacy. I didn't ask what version I was getting, and I was expecting the crumbly sausage and bread texture that had often been described to me. The stuffing in these little pockets, though, tasted and felt more like a meat mousse, creamy with a bit of texture, savory and subtle. I thought I would be bathing each bite in the whiskey sauce to attenuate any unpleasant aftertaste, but no need. The sauce was delicious too, but those little Parcels stood proudly on their own.
I also tried the Elderberry Lemonade and it's my new favorite. Softly tangy and sweet with a gentle roll of bubbles— so refreshing, so delicate. And then,Sticky Toffee Pudding, a moist sponge cake with the deep flavor of dates lavishly drizzled with toffee sauce and served warm with vanilla ice cream. There's a lot of sad things going on in this world, but this treat just wants to make you utterly happy, if only for a few minutes.
Our first adventure in Scotland was a game-changer for me. While Windsor Castle will always be possibly the most imposing of medieval structures because of size, history, and relevancy in today's royal world, Edinburgh Castle takes the crown as most magical and mystical. Set upon a formidable rock with breathtaking views of Edinburgh, this castle will transport you as soon as you walk up the hill and through its massive doors flanked by William Wallace and Robert the Bruce, iconic heroes of Scottish history.
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| Robert the Bruce |
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| William Wallace |
If I had to pick a favorite feature of the castle besides the stunning views, I would have to say it was Queen (Saint) Margaret's Chapel. Built in the 12th century by King David I, Margaret's fourth son, it is the oldest surviving building in Scotland.
A good old-fashioned tour revealed more marvels of the city. On prestigious Heriot Row, I took notice of famed Number 17, once the home of Robert Louis Stevenson. The Palace of Holyroodhouse is the British monarch's official residence while in Scotland, but us royal watchers know they much prefer their home in the Highlands, Balmoral. The Hub has to be the most striking site in Edinburgh. Its Gothic presence is indeed the highest point in the city skyline. Built in 1850 to house the General Assembly of the Church of Scotland, today it's an arts and events center and home to Edinburgh International Festival.
A day rich with the sights and sounds of this historic city can only end with a swanky meal at Gusto Italian, a refined Sicilian restaurant and one of the best restaurants in Edinburgh. My choice of appetizer was Hummus, served with music bread — and Italian flatbread resembling parchment paper—and pumpkin seeds, all put together in a creative architectural design. My entree was the Pan-Roasted Chicken Breast with Mushroom and Tarragon served with crispy polenta, also a well-executed dish with all its flavor promises kept, especially the polenta. But my smile widened at dessert time. Bombolinis are dough balls served with Chantilly cream, chocolate and Biscoff sauces, and fruits of the forest sorbet. The name sounds like something an Italian nonna would call her grandbabies, and they these little balls are just as sweet and cute.
The next day in Scotland is now even more significant than it was in the summer. I always admired Her Majesty, Queen Elizabeth, and looking back on our visit to HMY Brittania evokes bright memories of her life and reign which sadly ended this September. The Yacht was in service between 1954 and 1997 and is now a five-star attraction in Edinburgh. When it was decommissioned, it was the only time I ever saw Her Majesty shed a tear in public, it was that dear to her. A walk through it gives you a sense of closeness, dare I say intimacy, with the longest reigning monarch in Europe. Her simple yet elegant style permeates every corner of this ship. Her spirit lives on in our hearts and most palpably in the rooms of this vessel.
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| Her Majesty's Quarters |
We returned to London, our starting point, via Stratford-on-Avon and York (see post titled Rule, Brittania!). With a twinge of sadness that our epic journey was ending, we made one last stop in Jedburgh, a small Scottish town on the border with England founded in the 9th century. Its skyline is dominated by the ruins of the Augustinian Jedburgh Abbey built in the 12th century.
Despite the nostalgia quickly settling within us, our hearts were grateful for the opportunity to explore these magical lands and for all the unforgettable moments we were taking with us. See you on our next adventure!
