Summer in New England

     If you're beginning to think about where to travel this year, an early summer road trip through the New England states is a must for all who search for pieces of their soul around the world. Here are just a few reasons why.
     New England is a sublime region peppered with historic small towns, bustling cities, and breathtaking landscapes.
     We began our journey in New York City, because I simply cannot be that close to this dynamic place and not visit. Our primary goal was to see the 9/11 Memorial and the Freedom Tower, haunting yet inspiring sights.

    Tribeca is my new favorite place to stay in NYC. It's close to SoHo, Little Italy, Chinatown, the Village, and just a short ride away from world-class shopping in Midtown, or the posh Upper East and West sides of the city. It's also generally less expensive than hotels in Midtown or points north.
     Bubby's is another reason Tribeca is now my preference. Everyone knows Bubby's, and that's not an exaggeration. It's breakfast mecca in the downtown area, and for me, after my beloved Carnegie Deli closed down, a huge void was filled when I discovered this quaint and comfortable nook to quell the craving for bagels with cream cheese and Nova lox. It doesn't hurt that their platters are unashamedly huge, just like your Bubby (Jewish grandma) would serve you. You can save a few bucks if you share, and you still won't leave hungry.

     Our next stop was not on the itinerary, but I'm so thankful we made the time to stop in Mystic, Connecticut. Towns like these seem to exist to give life to postcards and Norman Rockwell images. Mystic was the first of several we found in our travels this summer.

    I had a lobster roll in almost every city starting in Mystic, and this one from S & P Oyster Company proved to be the best of the bunch. I discovered that I lean toward the cold roll. As expected, the lobster was fresh, firm, and meaty, served in large rough-chopped chunks and lightly smothered in a citrus herb aeoli. 

     Our next stop was Cape Cod, and it's a miracle I didn't stay forever. Chatham has an elegant charm while retaining the feel of a cozy small town. Must-sees include Chatham Lighthouse near the "elbow" of Cape Cod, and the Eldredge Public Library. A walk through downtown, with its small shops, antique stores, coffee and ice cream spots, is food for the soul. The British Beer Company is a whimsical eatery where I enjoyed the English surroundings and a bowl of steaming, hearty New England Clam Chowder on a sunny but brisk day.

     Reluctantly, we said goodbye to the Cape and continued on to Salem. If you want to see this town come alive and even become frenetic, locals say, come in October. What better place to be for Halloween? But for a lazy summer quick stop, the Salem Witch Museum offers a comprehensive look into the history and folklore surrounding this magical place.

     In Salem, Finz offers a refined casual atmosphere for seafood lovers. I diversified and tried the warm lobster roll smothered in hot butter in a brioche bun. Every bite melts in your mouth.

     Where do I begin to describe Boston? Being a New York Yankees fan since my teenage years, I was a little apprehensive about going into Red Sox territory. I had my shields up and my attitude ready. What I found were the nicest, most neighborly people, ready to help me enjoy their historic city. Shields down, attitude in check.
     One day is most definitely not enough to fully grasp the charm and significance of this city, but we tried to take in as much of its flavor as we could. The Freedom Trail, a path marked throughout downtown Boston, is a brilliant tool that takes you to all the historic landmarks now surrounded by modern buildings. Old South Meeting House, Old State House, Old North Church, Paul Revere's House- these are just a few of the stops on the trail, and finding each one felt like discovering treasure.

     Boston's Public Garden is a non-negotiable. All the charm and elegance of this city is represented in the sights and sounds of this park. And if you can, you must indulge in the Boston tradition of riding a boat on Swan Lake, the inspiration for that classic children's book The Trumpet of the Swan by E.B. White.

    I also allowed myself another classic Boston indulgence, lunch at the legendary Omni Parker House restaurant, home of the famous Parker House Rolls and the original Boston Cream Pie. I also sampled their flaky, savory Baked Boston Scrod, lightly covered in a lemon beurre blanc and white wine sauce and coarse cracker crumbs, and served with jasmine rice. A classic of the restaurant since 1906, I found the dish delightful and satisfying, 

     Established in 1855, Parker House is the longest running hotel in America, and still retains its 19th century style and atmosphere.

     With only a couple of hours to spare before heading toward Maine, we stopped for lunch in downtown Portsmouth, New Hampshire. If you have limited time, my opinion is that the Portsmouth Decks are excellent for a good meal looking out at this historic waterway. I enjoyed a sinful bowl of lobster mac and cheese at River House while watching the tugboats and sailboats that pepper the serene harbor. Then, I worked some of it off with a short walk around Market Square taking in the North Church and the many boutiques. If possible, visit the Portsmouth Harbor Lighthouse in Fort Constitution, established in 1771 and added to the National Register of Historic Places in 2009.

     I found two pieces of my traveling soul on this tour, one in Cape Cod, and the second in Portland, Maine. I could fill this post with pictures of Portland, but my zen moments came in the form of two stunning lighthouses. The first was Portland Headlight Lighthouse in Cape Elizabeth. Commissioned by George Washington in 1787, it sits majestically on a promontory overlooking the Gulf of Maine. From every angle, this structure enthralls. No wonder it is said to be the most photographed lighthouse in the United States.

     Lighthouses have always given me a sense of hope, of light at the end of the dark tunnels of life, of a mystical eye watching over me. I'm drawn to them as I would be to a best friend. My second discovery was the Portland Breakwater Light, also cheekily called Bug Light. This stubby structure is elegantly Greek and so cute, I wanted to put it in my pocket and take it home as a souvenir. If you visit Bug Light Park, walk over to the memorial for the World War II builders of the Liberty Ships. As an immigrant, I never cease to be awestruck by the American grit and determination when freedom is in jeopardy.

     And so, this idyllic tour, blessed with mild weather, came to an end as we ushered in the hot summer. 

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The Toothsome Chocolate Emporium & Savory Kitchen Feast

   

Meet Professor Doctor Penelope Tibeaux-Tinker Toothsome, an adventurous 19th century lady who traveled the world in search of new and inventive ways to infuse chocolate into complex recipes with the help of her faithful sidekick, Jacque The Robot. At the end of her long tour, she returned home with a vision to share her new and fascinating knowledge with the world by creating an emporium that everyone near and far could visit.

     And that's exactly what the people who designed this fantasy have done. The Emporium at Universal Studios, Orlando, is a steampunk feast for the senses that includes visits to each table by the main characters in the backstory behind this concept. There was a surreal moment when I found myself discussing Cuban pastries (pastelitos) with a Victorian English upper class lady in a bustled dress, and a robot.

     

    Not to mention that as you open the door, you enter a wondrous retail space, the aptly named Emporium, crammed with displays of all things sweet, moslty chocolate, and staff in period dress flashing those big theme park smiles and personalities.

     Let's not forget that there's food here too. The brown leather-bound, gold embossed book they call menu is busting with popular fare and a sprinkling of intriguing novelties like Chocolate Almond Bread with Salted Caramel Butter for an appetizer, or a Fire Grilled Pork Chop with Bitter Chocolate Mole Sauce, or Chocolate Brioche S'mores French Toast for brunch. This is the extreme tip of the iceberg, so if you visit, I encourage you to take time to review the menu carefully before you make your choices.

     After an enchanting visit to The Wizarding World of Harry Potter, mecca for avid fans like me, this fantasy place offered the perfect finale to a magical day. Exhaustion precluded us from ordering overly complex dishes, but my Croque Monsieur offered melted Gruyere, crunchy toasted bread, and good country ham. What I never seem to get is enough Bechamel sauce. I'm starting to think my expectations are too high on this issue.

     John had a standard, or classic, as he calls it, cheddar bacon burger. For him, the brioche bun is all the luxury he needs. Although unremarkable, it satisfied his hunger. Our choices came with fries and sweet potato wedges. Both were also satisfying, but predictable. I'm ashamed to say that I let fatigue get the best of me, and I decided to forgo enticing items from the dessert menu like Brookies, Cookies and Cream, and Cream Puff and Eclair for the equally intriguing but less overwhelming Jacque's Specialty Milkshakes menu. I ordered the Heavenly Hazelnut and John tried the Key Lime Pie, and both were refreshing and comforting, but I feel they could've packed a stronger flavor punch.

     It's not gourmet dining, but the menu has something for everyone, and all of it is gratifying. Without a doubt, the Emporium is an experience that should not be missed. Fun for the whole family!

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Hash House A Go Go

It is the self-professed home of twisted farm food. I say twisted, experimental, bold, even dangerous. My informant on this unconventional adventure was our server, Judy. She had just started working at Hash House but a few days before my visit, and was happy to share some of her most interesting observations. "I love working here. I'm proud of the product they offer." Judy has every reason to be proud.

   
     The first thing I noticed after the bright orange tractor that greets you as soon as you step inside was the odd way the tables were set. The napkins were placed in a crisscross pattern, and the utensils presented as farming implements ready for labor or swords ready for battle.
     The next source of pleasure came when I learned their monster breakfast installations were offered all day, and we all know that breakfast is the most important meal of the day, no matter what time you have it. And folks, this menu is epic. If you're a hard core foodie, it reads like Michener. I swear I could smell the farm freshness just from looking at the dish descriptions. I would feel sorry for you if your mouth didn't water at the words "Stuffed Hash House Meatloaf, with roasted red peppers, mozzarella, and marsala cream sauce." Marsala cream sauce, really? My apologies for drooling as I write. Or "Crispy Indiana Hand Hammered Pork Tenderloin Benedict on a massive biscuit dressed in yellow tomato, spinach, barbecue cream, and basted eggs." Pure poetry.
   

      John boldly faced the Sage Fried Chicken and Waffles, a massive tower of waffles, two fried chicken breasts, drizzled with a hot maple reduction, and fried leeks. The chicken was juicy and tender under the heavy breading, the waffles contained bacon, a favorite of John's, and I brazenly stole the fried leeks from his plate, and fell in love in a hurry. I see why this leviathan got the New York Times' seal of approval.
       Along with a divine Spiked Strawberry Kiwi Lemonade, I had the farm eggs Benedict with House smoked salmon and sundried tomatoes. I asked for a substitution of the chili cream for a Hollandaise, and I was told, almost in a whisper, that the chef/ kitchen manager, Andreas Feliciano, is peculiar about changes to his compositions. Anywhere else I would consider that a strike against the restaurant, but here it earns my respect. I totally understand that any alteration to these works of culinary art would be an artistic and unnecessary crime. I have this image of a mad scientist in an experimental kitchen, admiring his own creations in manic worship. Still, the kitchen staff did their best to accommodate me, removed the chili sauce, and gave me blue cheese dressing on the side. 
     Our dessert choice, Andy's famous bread pudding, was another audacious interpretation of an otherwise commonplace treat. It was warm, chocolatey, and mushy, which I like in bread pudding, especially with melting ice cream and chocolate sauce. And it was enormous. Six people would do it justice. We had to take three quarters of it home, and eat the ice cream or lose it.
     And on the subject of portion size, they are bordering on obscene. It's done on purpose to evoke a farmer's supper plate after a long workday on the farm. Hash House is what we think of as a dining experience, not just a restaurant. It's entertainment. It's exploration. It's unforgettable.

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4 Rivers Smokehouse

How do you balance the search for satisfying food and budget-friendly dining? Because frankly Wendy's and Kentucky Fried Chicken have their limitations as comfort delivery systems. 4 Rivers presents a tantalizing option if your craving du jour is barbecue. It all started with John Rivers' barbecue cookouts for charity, and now it's the most popular barbecue chain in Florida and expanding with a new location in Atlanta, GA. And by the way, the Barbecue Ministry is still the highest priority. I cheered when I read that they would be hosting a fundraiser at their Coral Springs, FL location for those affected by the Parkland high school shooting.
    The food is served cafeteria style, and ample seating is available once you pay for your tray. I have no doubt that what's made them popular is the quality of their ingredients and their work with brisket. Don't let the casual surroundings fool you. Their smoked brisket demands respect.

      John and I picked the sandwich with two sides. John had the baked beans, and he believes he filled his daily nutritional allowance of vegetables with fried okra, while I chose only the cheese grits in expectation of dessert. Again, the brisket was tasty, juicy, and smoked to perfection. However, I was disappointed that the sandwiches were cold, and the bread was too mealy, and chewing it distracted me from my focus on the meat. John found the beans thick and sweet, with just the right amount of molasses, and I enjoyed the toasty, rich grits which came in a pie square.

     I can't help but like this place, and one of the reasons is that they also do dessert with care. The choice of sweets is as comprehensive as the rest of the menu, and that means their priorities align with mine. Rich chocolate, coconut, carrot, and red velvet cakes, cupcakes and sweet bars, and sundry confections and sweet treats. This is not your ordinary apple pie and soft serve ice cream. Now I'm forced to return because I could only allow myself one. I bounced between the Crispy Creme Bread Pudding, the Seasonal Whoopie Pie, and the Coconut Bomb. I finally decided on the Bayou Bar, a curious chunk of pecan shortbread crust with cream cheese filling. So thick, so decadent, it took me three days to finish it. No complaints here.
    With all the positives, a cold sandwich and chewy bread will not deter me from a repeat visit. There's plenty to explore on their menu and killer smoked brisket to enjoy.

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5300 Chop House

Located in The Blue Hotel, with a view of a monster golf course, Chop House has that casual executive feel where lunches and dinners are the setting for intrepid business deals and sophisticated talk about international finance. The menu is not extensive, but it contains enough to put together a satisfying repast.
   
     Daylin, Mario, John and I, the Fab Four of Feasting, are together again this evening, curious and eager to begin our adventure. We begin with a small charcuterie board packing some punch— an exquisite serrano ham, a bold manchego cheese, crispy flatbread chips, olives, red grapes, walnuts, and dried mango and fig.
   
The boys, avid carnivores that they are, both ordered the Chairman's Reserve, grass fed NY strip with a faint schmear of chimichurri, and in the company of a twice baked sweet potato and sauteed vegetables, a dish they both found savory and satisfying in its simplicity. DJ and I were drawn to the beef tips with gorgonzola crumbles, but in service of this blog, we diversified our versions for maximum quality control. My beef tips came with fragrant jasmine rice and sauteed vegetables, and DJ wisely chose a hearty risotto which gave her dish that comforting quality that makes you close your eyes with every bite.
     Dessert shared by four people is guilt-free in my world, so it's often my favorite course. Tonight we shared a caramel cheesecake and a Key lime tart. Both were no more than acceptable. The cheesecake seemed store-bought, and my dinner companions reported an off-putting grainy texture, like sugar crystals, in the tart's filling. Frankly, I completely forgot the tart.
     Everything about this meal was adequate, but nothing was remarkable. Nothing offended, but likewise, nothing wowed. I can't say I wouldn't come back, but I also can't say it would be my first choice.

Photo by miamiandbeaches.com

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