Tuesday, July 30, 2019

Charleston Charm

     Cobblestone streets, antebellum architecture, five-star dining, Charleston, South Carolina has it all. Six days seemed plenty to get acquainted with this compact city. In fact, I thought I'd run out of things to see, but I was wrong, way wrong. I left wanting a do-over with more time. 
     Upon arrival early on a Thursday in June, John and I set out to walk Meeting Street right in the heart of the historical district. We spent a little more for our hotel in that area, but it was worth every penny to be walking distance of sights and restaurants.
     Structures such as the Neo-Classical South Carolina Historical Society building, the Calhoun Mansion, the Nathaniel Russell House, and the stunning St. Michael's Church line this street, and that's just a taste of what we discovered in this enchanting city steeped in history.

     

      A quick detour onto King Street took us to Glazed, a small, unassuming gourmet donut shop. Two lovely ladies with wide welcoming Charleston smiles introduced us to these confections, all natural, no preservatives, no added coloring, and hands down the best donuts we've ever had. Look below and guess which one I had.

    
     No trip to the South would be complete without a taste of barbecue, and although it's not at the top of my favorites list, thanks to Swig & Swine I have new respect for it. Not only did I have the richest, most decadent brisket sandwich, but they gave me my first taste of moonshine. Well, three tastes. I felt so adventurous!


     We took a day trip to Myrtle Beach, South Carolina's favorite family-friendly resort town. Sixty miles of beaches framed by restaurants, souvenir shops, an amusement park, and SkyWheel, one of the tallest ferris wheels in the country. Hurricanes Daiquiri Bar and Grill was a random choice that turned out to be inspired. A casual, inexpensive menu with dishes prepared with care and flavor.


 Magnolia Plantation and Gardens is the most visited plantation in the Charleston area. However, we visited at the wrong time. The sprawling gardens were beautifully green, but we missed the colors they're famous for by a season. I'd like to see them again in full-bloom spring. We still enjoyed hiking through the dense, narrow pathways, one of which leads you to the white bridge, known as the most romantic spot in the South. I'm a  believer.



     On Sunday, we dressed up for brunch at Parcel 32 on King's Street. Bright, elegantly simple, well-executed classic dishes, and you don't have to make a reservation three weeks in advance as is required in some other establishments in the area. Their Buttermilk Biscuits and Gravy are an example of a traditional Southern treat taken to a superior level at Parcel 32.

     
     Despite the heat, I enjoyed our walk down to the Battery taking in the stunning architecture,  Rainbow Row and the spectacular Georgian, Italianate, Victorian, Federal, and Colonial historic homes near the waterfront. Many of these houses all around Charleston offer guided tours about their place in history and a look into life and design of those times.



     The Brick on Ann Street boasts of being Charleston's favorite tavern. It's their tagline. I didn't conduct any surveys to confirm that bold statement, but I can say that I had an unforgettable burger called The Aussie, prepared with goat cheese, basil, a balsamic reduction, and yes, pickled beets, and I assure you the combination of flavors was flawless. The sweet potato tots were the perfect partner to the fresh tartness of the balsamic reduction.
     

     As often happens, the best moments come at the end of the game, and so it did for us on this occasion. We visited Beaufort, SC and were enchanted by the small town vibe. Set in a historic Antebellum atmosphere, Beaufort is a little treasure of the South Carolina Lowcountry. Just a short ride north is the mystical Old Sheldon Church ruins, burned down twice, once in 1779 and after being rebuilt again, by General Sherman in 1865. This was for sure my favorite find of the trip.



   
    I'll say it again, this short trip just scratched the surface. Charleston and its environs have many more treasures to discover and I intend to return and continue my exploration.

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