Red Robin

Yes, I must be the last person in the free world that had never tried Red Robin, but burger snobs like me often overlook the obvious, plus until recently, there wasn't one conveniently located. John said it would be like Fuddruckers, and that was a good enough endorsement for me.

     The mood is that of a happy '50s diner with a bar- lots of kiddie birthday parties going on, cheerful servers, neon signs, cooks hustling in the open kitchen.
Hubby ordered the Smoke & Pepper, which   they call their finest. The black pepper bacon was cooked the way he likes it- not too limp, not too crispy. This burger promised a smoky flavor but failed to deliver. "I ordered the best, but I wasn't impressed." From the poet laureate of the meat world.
     I ordered the Guacamole Burger but switched the Swiss cheese for blue cheese. This burger really tried hard to be good and it had potential, but it was missing the pink interior of a medium-cooked patty, and even more noticeably, the guacamole.  There was a schmear of it on one side of the bun, but I looked through the burger several times to make sure I hadn't somehow misplaced it. I shouldn't have to do that, right?  If the name includes the word 'guacamole', then the avocado flavor and texture should rise to meet me. We both ordered the steak fries and found them stale and disappointing.
     I won't say it was the worst burger I ever had, but this snob needs more.

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Ankarr Restaurant & Pastry Shop

    Since its inception seven years ago, I've been driving by Ankarr curious to try it after many recommendations. The visit did not live up to my high expectations.

     To begin with, they call themselves a "European deli". Hmm... I'm not sure I totally got that vibe. Some menu items gave a hint of European influence, but the majority of what I saw was more on the Cuban side. There were some omelettes, Spanish dishes and a significant presence of Spanish chorizo as well as a couple of quiches and one or two Italian and French pastries, but nothing you wouldn't find in any fine bakery.

     Somehow it all lacked a true Mediterranean flavor. I did appreciate the fresh-squeezed orange juice. That was worth some points.
     We ordered the chorizo omelette, the chorizo empanada and a Napoleon to share for dessert. The omelette was very generous and flavorful even if on the dry side. The empanada was ordinary and the Napoleon just fetched a 'so what?' John called it a rectangular cream pie.
      Now for the service. Two omelettes were delivered to our table, and when I politely pointed out that I had ordered an empanada, the server proceeded to blame me for not indicating properly at the display case when ordering. I guess here the customer is NOT always right. In her defense, if there is any, there doesn't seem to be a clear division of labor among the staff. The same people that take your order, serve it and clean empty tables, all at the same time, which translates into inordinately long wait times to order, to be served and to pay.
     I can sum up the experience in one word: pedestrian.

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Grand Lux Cafe

'Tis the season for shopping, and this bright Saturday in December was dedicated to just that. We headed toward Sawgrass Mills outlets in Florida's Broward County expecting to come out with treasures aplenty. That was not to be for several reasons: First, the overwhelming crowds made it difficult to shop for what we wanted. Then, we didn't feel the "sale prices" were such great deals, and finally, I'm just plain cheap. No way to sugar-coat that.
     We did enjoy our stroll around the Colonnade area, an ersatz Rodeo Drive with all the usual suspects: Prada, Coach, Salvatore Ferragamo, Gucci... places where my mortgage payment only gets me a pair of sandals. Within this retail stratosphere sits the Grand Lux Cafe, "the younger and sexier sister of the Cheesecake Factory", as our server Jason characterized it. Created by the same minds, it is indeed an upscale version of the popular Factory.
     The vast space contains luxurious booths, an opulent backlit onyx wall and dramatic light fixtures suspended from an Art Deco-inspired high ceiling. We learned that their international dishes are prepared on demand with fresh ingredients, nothing pre-packaged or shipped in bulk. In fact, certain desserts have to be ordered with dinner to allow time for preparation 'from scratch'.

     I chose the Chicken Madeira with mashed potatoes and John ordered the ginger beef. We found both entrees generous, savory and well executed.
    I was intrigued by the presence of beignets on the menu, an item generally found in eateries with New Orleans-themed cuisine, so I had to try them. This is where their actions spoke as loudly as their words. A basket of hot-off-the-fryer, sublime little ovals of dough came to our table in the company of three rich sauces- chocolate, raspberry and Jack Daniel's cream. But can I tell you? As inviting as the sauces were, those little pillows from heaven didn't need any embellishment. Every sugary bite just melted in your mouth leaving you eager for the next nibble.
     Except for the tiny issue of the table bread, cold slices of French baguette and some type of wheat bread that we found uninspired, we left wishing we had one of these franchises closer to our neighborhood. Divine desserts, elegant and inviting space and solidly good food!

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The Green Turtle Inn

 

The multitude swarms around every corner of retail space in the city in a mad pursuit of perceived savings on this Black Friday, but a small group of us decided to escape into a bubble of cool sea breezes, sixty-degree temperature under Tiffany-blue skies. To complete the color palate, the narrow road to Long Key is flanked by the emerald bay on one side and the teal blue Atlantic on the other.

     Following a lively after-Thanksgiving celebration, our Saturday morning was begging for a hearty breakfast and this establishment, just a short drive into Islamorada from our hideout in Long Key, came highly recommended.
     We entered the cozy yet elegant dining room and immediately my friend DJ did a double-take when she spotted the monumental sticky buns that were being distributed to every populated table. But we'll talk about those later. Fortunately for me, our party of five picked a good sampling of menu items.

Frances ordered the shrimp and grits, one of her usuals, with a side of collard greens; DJ chose the Eggs Benedict with a side of hash brown casserole; Mario and I went for The Sid, a mushroom, peppers and cheddar omelette, except I replaced the cheddar with Boursin cheese and skipped the peppers. He also opted for the hash brown casserole and I decided on the grits. And my hubby was feeling their Bimini Waffle which can be infused with your choice of fruit or chocolate chips. The Purist had it plain, or 'classic' as he calls it, with a side of bacon.

     I tasted the collard greens and found them tangy and refreshing. I also sampled the hash brown casserole and loved the 'mac and cheese' texture. Great alternative to the ordinary dry shaved version so ubiquitous in breakfast dishes. My cup o' grits was warm and satisfying, as expected.
     By most people's standards, the omelette was very good. It had plenty of mushrooms, it was fluffy but substantial at the same time. That said, why is it so hard for me to find flavor in restaurant omelettes and scrambled eggs? They always seem on the edge of bland. I feel as if one forgotten pinch of salt or a teaspoon more of butter in the pan could make the difference, but instead I must rely on add-ons to capture the flavor. And speaking of add-ons, if I may pat myself on the back for a second, the Boursin cheese decision was a stroke of genius. I positively recommend it. The silken cream got along famously with my omelette and made up for any flavor shortcomings I may have detected.
   

     Now for the sticky buns: They were massive, doughy, wallowing in cascades of viscous syrup and crowned with chewy pecans. We ordered one for the table and everyone was more than satisfied with their portion, not to mention it served us well as DJ's improvised birthday cake. The syrup was so thick, it was a bit hard to navigate. I still think the sticky buns at Knaus Berry Farm are the ones to beat, but this was a gratifying way to end a pleasant and comforting brunch.
     The Green Turtle Inn is definitely not a one-bite stand!

 

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Paizanos

Old Norcross is a picturesque historic village in North Atlanta that has special significance for me. It's where John proposed under a canopy of magnolia trees. It is also a little stretch of Americana in the middle of suburbia that transports you away from the rushing city. It is teeming with sprawling parks, regal fountains, old and new architecture faithful to the style of the late 1800s, boutiques, gift shops, and plenty of places to eat.

     Paizanos is modeled after the traditional Italian eatery. Pizza pies are the specialty, but they include the obligatory pasta dishes on their menu. The location is small but comfortable, the bar is attractive and the service is excellent. It was just perfect for a family lunch on a laid-back Sunday afternoon.
     There were nine of us at the table so there was quite a variety of dishes. I didn't take a bite off each person's plate so I can only describe my own, but everyone seemed satisfied with their choices.
     We started on a great note. Their garlic rolls or "knots" came piled in a deep and ample bowl with a serving of marinara sauce on the side. They were meaty, lathered in garlic oil and bejeweled with chunky pieces of garlic that I didn't dislike, although some at the table mentioned they preferred their garlic minced rather than chopped.
     A cheese pizza came for the two youths in our party and it garnered oohs and aahs from everyone. Even I found it attractive and fragrant in spite of my general indifference toward pizza. Some of the other items represented included lasagna, three different chicken presentations- Florentine, Parmigiana, and Alfredo, all accompanied with a side of pasta. After quite a long stretch of lively conversation, a reverent silence came over the table broken only by satisfied sighs.
   

     I ordered the Gnocchi Alfredo and there were no surprises. The sauce was a little thin but the flavor was solid. John ordered yet another chicken option, Marsala. He said it was 'standard'. Nothing different from what he's had a hundred times before.
     In all honesty, the afternoon was more about family gathering together than having a gastronomic experience, and Paizanos is ideal for that purpose. You get what you expect from the popular menu items, plus those sinful bread knots. What more could you ask for?

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Cuban Guys

   

Fast, cheap and authentic are the words that come to mind when describing these little joints that have popped up around Miami. The menu is quite full of everything you would expect to find in a Cuban sandwich shop. Plantain chips, yucca fries, cod fritters and their signature crispy string fries, all fresh and prepared on the premises, from what I could see.
     John ordered the Original Frita, a thin slice of meat heavily seasoned with paprika, grilled onions and a shower of string fries on a Cuban roll. He didn't care for the seasoning so he wasn't impressed.
     I had the Pan con Lechón, pulled pork marinated in garlic 'mojo', grilled onions and their signature blanket of string fries on toasted Cuban bread. I have to say I liked it. The pork was tender and tangy, as I expected. I do think a little more meat and fewer string fries would make these sandwiches top notch in the fast-food kingdom.
     I wouldn't make a special trip for their food, but they add variety to the options for inexpensive, casual meals. That's a good thing.

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ChillN Nitrogen Ice Cream

Tucked away in a drab and nearly lifeless strip mall on the East side of Miami's US1, is this minuscule place with the most delicious little secret. When you take a panoramic view of the shopping center, traffic is nearly undetectable except right in front of ChillN. Hoards of people huddle inside and out like bustling ants on a hill, perfectly willing to wait for a turn to place their orders.

   
     Given my vast ignorance in matters of chemistry, my expectations of flash-freeze nitrogen ice cream were not high. I couldn't shake the images of creepy cryogenic experiments from my head. What I found was the creamiest ice cream I've ever had this side of my beloved gelato. The flavor choices, add-ons, and miscellaneous elements available can be combined in nearly limitless ways to build your personal cup of heaven.

     I chose pumpkin frozen yogurt with Nutella and brownie bites. John had one of their specials or 'Equations of the Week', chocolate ice cream with cookie bites. Both the yogurt and the ice cream were satisfyingly dense and velvety and the flavors mild yet distinctive.
     These little unexpected gifts from Providence make life so much sweeter!

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Finka Table and Tap

What do you get when you mix Cuban 'vaca frita', Korean barbecue ribs, Peruvian ceviche, ranch-style decor, and '60s oldies music? No, not chaos. Not if it's done with creativity and attention to detail.
     Finka defines eclecticism. The broadly diverse fusion menu is not an accident or the result of an absence of purpose. It's deliberate, and the ingenuous minds behind it knew exactly what they were doing. The concept for this gastropub was born to the descendants of Cuban cuisine royalty. The founders of Islas Canarias, a staple in Southwest Miami for over 30 years, are the grandparents of Jon and Eileen Andrade, the young creators of this buzzing new establishment.

      Even before you walk in, you get a preview of what awaits in the form of  'the Finka Couch', a bull made entirely of horseshoes that doubles as a bench and sits politely to the side of the door. Once inside, the place speaks 'ranch'- wagon wheels, blown glass pendant lamps hanging from ropes, and stable tools on the walls.
     My aperitif was called 'Summer Love', a mystical concoction that included elements such as honey vodka, cardamom syrup, and egg whites among others.This unlikely mixture resulted in a perplexing flavor. It was bitter but also sweet; it left a trace of aromatic spice but also of fragrant flowers. Based on such polarity, I shouldn't have liked it, but I did... very much.
     John ordered a Two Brothers (Ebel's Weiss) beer and thought it tasted like a Miller Light. I'm not sure how the Two Brothers would interpret that.

     In spite of its variety, the menu is not unusually lengthy but it's an intentionally smart and comprehensive representation of the three main cultural themes.
     John ordered the Korean pork ribs served over a bed of truffle fries, which looked more like potato sticks than fries. Hubby picked the bones clean, but he insists it was out of his general penchant for ribs, not because these were particularly exceptional. I had the Vaca Frita with glass noodles and found the dish generous, savory and comforting.
     Dessert options were not plentiful; in fact, they don't actually have a dessert menu yet. From the limited choices available, I made an executive decision and ordered the 'natilla', the Cuban version of custard. This one comes in a glass with a layer of pulverized Oreos at the bottom, then natilla, chocolate fudge and topped with walnuts. It was good for that last bite of sweetness to end the meal, but John tasted it and said, "Oh, so 'natilla' means pudding." It was that ordinary.
     Without a doubt, this is a place of sharp contrasts, bold flavor couplings and unexpected culinary turns. It works. Nevertheless, most of their repeat customers are probably going to be of Latin background and authorities on many of these specialty dishes. Caution must be taken to present assertively full-flavored dishes with consistency.

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