Crust

This is not your ordinary pizzeria with miscellaneous pasta dishes listed on the menu's perimeter. In fact, I will confess I didn't even acknowledge the presence of pizza while at this establishment in spite of the unrivaled quality of their pies which have won Crust numerous accolades. Even their bread rolls are extraordinary. They're a little bit Italian bread, a little bit flaky croissant, a little bit brioche bun, and besmeared to perfection in garlic olive oil and parmesan.

   

     The restaurant sits in a corner of the Miami River district, an area not known for its accessibility or abundant parking. Yet six nights a week the place is bustling with fervent repeat customers who tell their friends who in turn tell their friends, and they all want to try the inspired, generous dishes, and the exceptional service. It's a warm and inviting environment, a tone set by co-owner Macedonian-born Anita Kovaceski, who welcomes everyone who comes through the door with a sincere and grateful smile. Her husband, Klime Kovaceski, is the mastermind creating platters of love back in the kitchen.

     And platters they are, no joking. They take pride and pleasure in serving gigantic portions of the most comforting, well-thought out Italian dishes made with carefully selected fresh ingredients. Let's cut to the chase. They just want to feed you.
   

     On this fine evening, in the company of Daylin, my favorite partner in epicurean crime, and her husband Mario, we begin with Pan-fried Mozzarella and Meatballs for appetizers. Sounds like standard openers, but perfect ratio of cheese to breading, tender, large, shareable meatballs, and fresh, rich marinara sauce are elements that put these starters in a whole other league.

     It was an evening of classic dishes that somehow, in this place, were magical. I ordered the Risotto with Chicken, a massive plate of velvety, flavorful arboreal rice with golf-ball sized chunks of chicken breast, mixed with red peppers and zucchini. Daylin also received a mountain of Chicken Marsala on a king sized bed of mushroom risotto. The Marsala sauce was refined, with the right amount of sweetness, and a tingle of acidity, like God intended.

    Mario chose the Tuscan-style Tuna grilled in garlic, herbs, and truffle oil and served over sauteed fresh mixed vegetables. But the star of this spectacle had to be John's Chicken Parmesan. It was a mountain of baked chicken tenderloin over linguini, all covered in a luscious blanket of mozzarella, parmesan, and that addictive marinara. An intuitive dish that knocks your socks off unexpectedly.

     And as if this night had not already been magnificent, my favorite course was still ahead. The prospect of sampling four different sweet bonnes bouches, is nothing short of paradise for me. The parade began with Limoncello cake, a Sicilian sponge cake infused with lemon, accompanied by Italian mascarpone and European white chocolate curls. Is there one wrong word in that description?

     Then came another classic performed to perfection- a masterful Key Lime pie that blended creamy, sweet, tart, and crunchy. A Kentucky Bourbon pecan pie followed, warm and in the company of genuine vanilla gelato. The finale was a bowl of fresh berries in a Sabayon sauce that danced gracefully between subtle and sublime.

     Can you taste commitment to excellence? I believe so. And I also think that every single item on the Crust menu contains that flavor, that extra punch that turns the ordinary into extraordinary. Personally, neither distance, nor lack of parking (they do offer valet parking), nor the fact that they don't open for lunch will keep me away. It's worth any inconvenience. Crust is that good.

BB Free ©2017

Cibo Wine Bar

     Everything sounds more fanciful in Italian. Naming a restaurant "Food" seems lazy and uninspired, but you translate the word to "Cibo", and it's a brand new day. Also, "wine bar" belies all the other wonders this establishment offers. August brings the beginning of Miami Spice season, the perfect opportunity to discover these wonders at a reasonable price.The beauty of the Miami Spice prix fixe lunch is the variety of dishes you get to sample for a mere $23, a price normally attributed to one single dish in many mid- to upscale places. And this blogger is on a budget.
   
Chrome, glass, and thick butcher block tables captivate as you enter the modern space located on the legendary Miracle Mile of Coral Gables in the heart of Miami. It's always a happy moment for me when I arrive at a new place during a lull. It gives me the freedom to take pictures and talk to the staff at my own pace without becoming a nuisance to other patrons. My BFFD (Best Friend for a Day) is Tristan, the bartender who introduced me to the Dopocena, a luxurious cocktail of two vodkas, Frangelico, Bailey's, Borghetti (coffee liqueur), and a shot of espresso. What's not to love?

     Today I'm in the delightful company of my well-traveled, epicurean friend, Claudia and her daughter Sofia. Between the three of us, all selections on the prix fixe menu will be sampled. No dish left behind. We begin with baked eggplant, grilled calamari, and Polpettine, or small meatballs. The eggplant is hearty and unctuous, swathed in melted parmigiano and bocconcini, or mozzarellas the size of an egg. The calamari were a wee bit underseasoned, but the Polpettine's mix of veal, pork, and beef produced a unique flavor that was light and sweet. 

     Our entrees were a tagliatelle bolognese, a chicken parmigiano with Tuscan kale and fingerling potatoes, and Trota alla Griglia, a grilled trout in lemon caper sauce, baby squash, and fava bean ragu. The pasta was predictable, but the chicken was tender and breaded and sauced to perfection. The trout came in the most promising presentation. Everything around it was savory and satisfying. The fish itself, however, was bland. Trout doesn't have a 'fishy' taste, so it's important to enhance its subtle flavor with proper seasoning. This version disappointed.
 

     Ricotta cheesecake is quickly becoming my favorite variety of this familiar dessert. Today's lemon-infused slice came in the company of fresh berries and caramel drizzle.The risk is great when you are faced with something that makes love to your mouth with every bite. Enough said.

     The other dessert choice was a vanilla bean panacotta with Prosecco fizz and berries. I find this sweet indulgence tricky. Subtle flavor and texture somewhere between flan and pudding must be accomplished for it to be a success. This one was skillfully executed. Hats off, indeed.

     Overall, my first Miami Spice adventure of 2016 had many more positives than negatives. A great start to the most delicious time of the year!

BB Free ©2016

Osteria Vecchio Piemonte

 I came here once before, but I was in such a hurry to get somewhere else, I didn't allow myself to go into my blogging state of mind. I could've dismissed it, but there was something about the seafood lasagna I inhaled that kept urging me to come back. So glad I did.

 

 

     

    The minuscule Osteria in Miami hides between a barber shop and a small nail salon in a short strip mall you wouldn't notice unless you were looking for it. This little package is wrapped in butcher paper, you could say, but when you remove the plain brown cover, an unexpected and lovely gift appears.The servers speak Italian, which is always delightful for me, and you are greeted with Italian effusion, like friends that wouldn't start a party until your arrival. The seating area is unassuming but immaculate. As soon as you're settled, a small plate with amuse-bouche bruschetta and a basket of Italian bread squares descend on the table as the server offers wine. Daylin's Rocca Bella Negroamaro Puglia was an unlikely pairing for her fish entree, but she relished it, so it's all good. I abstained this evening.

     

    Of all my gastronomy sidekicks, I have to say DJ is the most enthusiastic. All I have to say is "I'm working tonight" (meaning I'll be blogging about this meal), and her already healthy curiosity for food becomes deliciously scientific. I knew I could count on an appetizer and at least one dessert, but when the server informed us about the evening's app special, the Tavola di Formaggio, we were both giddy. DJ made an executive decision and ordered that and her beloved Rollatini di Melanzane, mozzarella-stuffed eggplant rolls.

 

     By the way, you should know that I wouldn't want to live in a world without cheese. That said, the little table of cheese that arrived represents for me a microcosm of all that is good and noble in food. Thin wedges of Gorgonzola, rosemary Pecorino and Ricotta Salata sat daintily on this block courted by orange marmalade, apple slices and caramelized walnuts. I could've played in that sandbox all night. The flavor combinations seemed endless, and every one delectable. The eggplant rolls were subtle and silky, but they couldn't distract me for too long from my cheesy adventure.

     Then we got serious. I don't often indulge in a restaurant's specials because I like to sample their regular fare, and perhaps find something in their menu so consistently good that it comes to define the place for me. This time, however, the specials appeared to be deliberately complex and intriguing, so I caved. DJ ordered the Pacific Corvina with the champagne Parmesan risotto. The fish was pan-seared in a lemon and wine herb sauce, and while it had body, it was flaky and light, like a kinder, gentler Chilean sea bass.

      My entree was the Brasato (braised beef) in a rosemary and red wine reduction with fresh polenta. The red wine reduction was everything in this dish. It gave the tender beef a rich and piquant flavor, and bathed the already sweet polenta in provocative saltiness.

     DJ and I like to think we are the creators of the game "Musical Desserts". We order as many as we think we can handle and we rotate them after a couple of bites. Tonight, we had only enough left in us to share the Lemon Mascarpone Cake. We studied our options carefully, and I think we made the right choice. Sweet and tart balanced each other perfectly, and the mascarpone made the moist cake almost as creamy as mousse.

     I can sleep easy now. My hurried first visit left me unsatisfied, the same way I feel with an unfinished crossword puzzle. Although a little pricey, this is as close to my ideal Italian dining experience as I've found anywhere but in Italy. I expected nothing less from a DJ recommendation. Tutto magnifico!

BB Free ©2016

Centolire Trattoria Italiana

It's a bittersweet circumstance when you visit a restaurant and part of the experience is redolent of past delights and the rest is simply average. At Centolire, authentic imported Italian waiters welcome you with a warm and hearty 'Buona sera!' On this particular evening, one was from Puglia, one from Napoli, and the chef from Rome. I actually had an opportunity to practice my emergent Italian, and felt pangs of nostalgia remembering my honeymoon in that magical land.
    

     The restaurant is so small, we circled the block and went right by it twice before we caught a glimpse of a chalkboard on the sidewalk with the name on it. The interior is cozy and elegantly simple- dark wood, white walls and linens, black and white photography on the walls.
     John ordered the Bistecca Pizzaiola, and I had the lobster ravioli in pink sauce.
The Pizzaiola was flavorful but not plentiful and surprisingly, it did not come with a side of pasta, which didn't give the dish that  generous and satisfying look we've become accustomed to getting from traditional Italian eateries. The ravioli were tasty, the lobster mild and pleasant, but they weren't memorable. Neither dish helped perpetuate that wistful feeling that washed over me when I first arrived.
     We were intrigued by the Nutella ravioli on the dessert menu. They were quite good and adequately stuffed with that chocolatey, hazelnutty (new word) food of the gods, but we expected them to be doughy and warm, and to release their contents with just a bite. Instead, their texture was more like a crunchy cookie that had to be shattered to get to the goodness inside.
 
     I so wanted to love this place! I kept hoping to find at least one element that would make it special because I was so enamored of the waiters and how they did give the atmosphere a proper Italian flair. But in the end I couldn't find anything outstanding that would make me go out of my way to return. I'll have to find somewhere else to practice my Italian. 'Ciao, amici!'

BB Free ©2015

Paizanos

Old Norcross is a picturesque historic village in North Atlanta that has special significance for me. It's where John proposed under a canopy of magnolia trees. It is also a little stretch of Americana in the middle of suburbia that transports you away from the rushing city. It is teeming with sprawling parks, regal fountains, old and new architecture faithful to the style of the late 1800s, boutiques, gift shops, and plenty of places to eat.

     Paizanos is modeled after the traditional Italian eatery. Pizza pies are the specialty, but they include the obligatory pasta dishes on their menu. The location is small but comfortable, the bar is attractive and the service is excellent. It was just perfect for a family lunch on a laid-back Sunday afternoon.
     There were nine of us at the table so there was quite a variety of dishes. I didn't take a bite off each person's plate so I can only describe my own, but everyone seemed satisfied with their choices.
     We started on a great note. Their garlic rolls or "knots" came piled in a deep and ample bowl with a serving of marinara sauce on the side. They were meaty, lathered in garlic oil and bejeweled with chunky pieces of garlic that I didn't dislike, although some at the table mentioned they preferred their garlic minced rather than chopped.
     A cheese pizza came for the two youths in our party and it garnered oohs and aahs from everyone. Even I found it attractive and fragrant in spite of my general indifference toward pizza. Some of the other items represented included lasagna, three different chicken presentations- Florentine, Parmigiana, and Alfredo, all accompanied with a side of pasta. After quite a long stretch of lively conversation, a reverent silence came over the table broken only by satisfied sighs.
   

     I ordered the Gnocchi Alfredo and there were no surprises. The sauce was a little thin but the flavor was solid. John ordered yet another chicken option, Marsala. He said it was 'standard'. Nothing different from what he's had a hundred times before.
     In all honesty, the afternoon was more about family gathering together than having a gastronomic experience, and Paizanos is ideal for that purpose. You get what you expect from the popular menu items, plus those sinful bread knots. What more could you ask for?

    BB Free ©2014

Tony's Di Napoli

Benvenuti a New York! Birthday month continued with a bang. You can't beat a long weekend in the Big Apple to extend the celebration, which now included John's special day as well. We planned a small family reunion with some relatives from New Jersey, and Tony's is the perfect family-style eatery right off Broadway and 43rd. Street, in the heart of Times Square.

     I have looked assiduously for a place like this in Miami, and I am sorry to say I haven't been able to replicate the feeling I get when I'm at Tony's. The closest I've come is Maggiano's and that was in Atlanta. But even there, the scent of franchise seeps into the experience. When you walk through the door at Tony's, you know you're about to be treated and fed like family and with friendly sophistication. There's always a celebratory air- every meal is a party.

     Tables of all sizes accommodate parties of any number and are covered in red-checkered and white tablecloths. Walls full of pictures feature recesses full of wine bottles. The restrooms in the basement remind me of every restaurant in Italy, and their unmistakable huge chalkboard menus look down on the joyous patrons.

 John and I arrived early and waited for the family at the bar. A stunningly beautiful lady bartender took our orders of a Corona for Hubby and a deliciously sweet and potent frozen Bellini for me. Let me just say, I was the life of the party after only one delicious drink!

 We began with the most delectable mountain of fried calamari with Marinara and Fra Diavolo (for the hot spice lovers) sauces on the side. For entrees, we all agreed on family platters of Chicken Marsala, spaghetti with Marinara, and Shrimp Fra Diavolo. I didn't try the shrimp, but those who did were making satisfied noises, so I concluded that it met expectations. The chicken wa stupendous and covered in copious amounts of mushrooms, the Marsala sauce rich in flavor, yet light in texture. In fact, I will confess that when the sauce accidentally touched one of my calamari, the combination was surprisingly pleasant. I know most people wouldn't agree, but I like to experiment with unlikely fusions. I was so intrigued by my new creation, Calamari Marsala, that I totally passed on the spaghetti.

     We were all so full at the end of the meal, that we didn't order any dessert, to my great disappointment. It would've been fun to see a huge platter of Tiramisu, Chocolate Mousse Cake or Ricotta Cheesecake in the middle of our table. No worries... it's New York. I'll be back.

BB Free ©2014
   

   
   

Café Prima Pasta

I'd been wanting to try Prima Pasta for over a year. In fact, I'd heard so much about it, I mentioned it in my women's fiction novel "Friends of the Bride", available March 7, 2020. No amount of research or number of third party opinions can beat an actual visit. Writers have to keep it real, right?  So my friends DJ and Frances with their respective husbands, Mario and Ross joined John and me for a birthday celebration/'casing the joint' adventure.

     The place as a whole is small and even further divided into a bar area and a dining area. The tables are so close together, you're almost forced to have physical contact with the strangers sitting around you.

   .  Lights are dim which exponentially enhances the spectacle that is the focal point of the space, a lavish crystal chandelier like none I've ever seen. The walls are papered with pictures and wine bottles, and the ceiling sparkles with an eclectic mix of lighting fixtures, all holding court around the centerpiece. It's busy, it's crowded, it's dark, but it works.

     The menu is comprehensive and respectably Italian. For appetizers, we started with an Antipasto Misto and a basket of Zucchini Fritti seasoned with salt and lemon. The antipasto platter contained cold cuts, cheeses, grilled vegetables, hearts of palm and an assortment of large olives that transported me back to Tuscany.

   

     Our entree selections were varied and a good representation

of the menu. DJ and Ross had the Black Linguine Seafood in lobster sauce, Frances and I had the Fiocchi Rapera, tiny pasta purses stuffed with Asian pear and gourmet cheeses happily playing in truffle sauce, and dotted with crispy sprinkles of prosciutto. You see, when fiocchi is on the menu, I have to look no further. I rhapsodized so much about this dish, that the very particular Frances decided to try them. I'm happy to report that she was not disappointed, although they were not the best I've ever tasted. However, I found them satisfying and would become my 'usual' were I to frequent the establishment.

     John ordered the Chicken Limone and found it unremarkable. Mario had the Veal Parmesan and ate it with gusto. Palates are like snowflakes.

     Dessert was fun. First, we were serenaded by the staff with a cheesy rendition of "Happy Birthday, Principessa", which I didn't hate, accompanied by a block of Tiramisu. Then, we proceeded to play DJ's and my favorite game, Musical Desserts. We ordered Profiteroles, pastries usually stuffed with cream and drizzled in chocolate sauce. Prima Pasta, however, stuffs them with vanilla ice cream. I prefer the classic version.

   

     We added ricotta cheesecake, Creme Brulee, and Tartufo, dulce de leche ice cream covered in a hardened dark chocolate. I'd never had ricotta cheesecake and I found it the perfect combination of airy and rich. I'll be looking out for more of that in the future. I love Tartufo, but somehow this one didn't satisfy. I wanted the sumptuous flavor of dulce de leche, but I had a tough time finding it. Perhaps it was overwhelmed by the dark chocolate.

     The Creme Brulee and Tiramisu were average. I will say, however, that everyone else enjoyed all the selections as they rotated around the table. I'm just too picky about my sweets, I admit.
     The restaurant punctuated our meal with complimentary shots of Sambucca, a gracious gesture indeed. It was a great evening, primarily because of the company of good friends, great conversation and endless laughter. Looking back, the year I turned 53 was a good one.

BB Free ©2014