Barcelona: City of Contrasts

Nestled between several mountain ranges and the Mediterranean Sea, Barcelona is one of the trendiest cities in the world. Although it's the kingdom of  Gaudi's modernisme architecture, this city is in fact an eclectic mix of Romanesque, Gothic, contemporary Art, and dynamic street art with notable mentions for the impressive Picasso museum and public mosaics by Joan Miró.

Casa Malagrida

                                 

But, as in most urban, cosmopolitan cities, there is an underbelly of poverty and crime juxtaposed over the sophistication and culture. Sadly, we've seen hunger and need in many cities we've visited, but the man that approached our table had an ancient hunger, one beyond begging, one that moves a person to walk with determination toward a table of restaurant patrons, grab a fistful of food from a plate, and devour it while walking away toward the next table. This is need that supersedes fear of irate customers, or retaliation, or even of intervention by the authorities. It's the most basic, primitive need, and nothing is stronger.

As we continued our exploration of this polarizing city, the must-see Sagrada Familia offers an awe-inspiring moment and a chance to live history in real time. Begun in 1882, the basilica is architect Antonio Gaudi's greatest legacy. At the time of his death in 1926, less than a quarter of the project had been completed. It is now considered the world's tallest church. Gaudi's unique combination of Gothic and Catalan Modernism styles pushed the boundaries of architectural design and had an audacious influence on Art Nouveau. 

Sagrada Familia Basilica

We turned to continue taking in the massive presence of the cathedral and were gifted with a little surprise with a lot of sweetness. Torrons Vicens is a family business dating back to 1775 and specializing in artisanal turrón or nougat, a traditional Spanish Christmas treat. We found ourselves surrounded by what seemed an infinite variety of flavors and confections to satisfy any whim. Of course, I spent a respectable amount of souvenir money at this world of wonder.

Our second day in Barcelona began with breakfast at an authentic Venezuelan bakery, a nostalgic moment for me filled with delights I hadn't seen for decades since my ten years living there. Bendito Pecado reintroduced me to cachitos (akin to a toasted croissant filled with meat and cheese), arepas (a Venezuelan staple and bread of choice), tequeños (salty white cheese wrapped in little fingers of sweet fried dough), pan de jamón (traditionally a Christmas sweet bread log filled with ham, bacon, raisins, and olives), hallacas (dough filled with shredded chicken and beef stew and wrapped in banana leaves), and pabellón, in my view the national dish, a combination of shredded beef, rice, and black beans accompanied by fried plantains. Although I didn't indulge in every item offered, to see them all together in one place felt like a happy reunion with long lost friends.

After our hearty breakfast, we walked over to the central plaza of Passeig de Lluís Companys to behold the splendor and majesty of the Arc de Triomf. Completed in 1888 and built in reddish brick, it's the most visually striking of all the well-known memorial arches of the world, in this blogger's opinion.

Arc de Triomf

Dinner was a celebration of multiple birthdays in our small group, and it was an evening to remember. We took a fascinating walk along the Passeig de Gracia, the Rodeo Drive of Barcelona, if you will, and marveled at the luxury brand shops and magnificent masterpieces of architecture, including Casa Batlló and Casa Malagrida.

Casa Batlló

El Nacional is an innovative gastronomic multispace comprised of four specialized restaurants for meat, fish, tapas, and a fast deli. Four bars also offer beers, preserves, wines, cold cuts, oysters, and cocktails. All the flavors of Barcelona in one place for your enjoyment!

We opted for La Braseria, the section devoted to meats. After ordering the obligatory sangria and other libations, we sampled the silkiness of Secreto Ibérico, the heavily marbled, most tender cut of pork often referred to as "Wagyu of pork", and my picky husband made a new friend. Tender, flavorful lamb chops were also present, but Secreto's charisma overshadowed everything else at our table, including the main carb, Barcelona-style roast beef cannelloni with béchamel and tomato sauce.

This versatile spot also houses the cutest gelato stand with a surprising selection of flavors for its size, and when it comes time to pick dessert, I always say why do anything else if you can do gelato.

As is always my feeling when I travel, my time in Barcelona wasn't nearly enough to savor this unique city as I would want. It's a place that boldly shows light and dark, it's sublime and scary at the same time, it's unapologetically human, brutal and beautiful.