Old Lisbon

Portuguese food is traditionally simple, hearty, and flavorful. Old Lisbon honors that tradition. When I visit a restaurant that specializes in regional or ethnic food, I like the flavors to transport me to that part of the world, and this unpretentious little spot in bustling South Miami did just that.
     Our appetizers were Bolinhos De Bacalhau, or codfish fritters, and Caldo Verde, a light potato soup with collard greens and Portuguese sausage. John's fritters came with an unexpected side of black-eyed peas that he described as cold and weird, which turned out to be chilled and delicately tossed in olive oil, garlic, and cilantro. Since he didn't want them, and my bowl of Caldo was so generous that I had to take most of it home, I appropriated this lovely and refreshing surprise.

     For entrees, John had the Vitela Assada, or roasted veal, and I the Bacalhau a Gomes de Sa, a heavenly casserole from northern Portungal consisting of shredded codfish, boiled potatoes, eggs, black olives, onions, and significantly enhanced in flavor by olive oil .While my dish had the traditional freshness and flavor I expected, the scent and hearty flavor of the veal was intoxicating. Each bite immediately turned into a savory cloud. It came with rice cooked in chicken broth, which is always a smart way to give rice flavor, and roasted potatoes. I thought it was starch overload, but in the presence of that sublime protein, all can be forgiven.

Photo by Old Lisbon

     Dessert was elegantly simple, and more importantly, well carried out. Pudim de Caramelo con Vinho do Porto is a caramel flan with a density and texture somewhere between the traditional flan and a bread pudding. It sat in a shallow pool of sweet, robust port, which I'm not ashamed to say I scooped with a teaspoon until it was all but gone. A dessert that sits on the digestif is a brilliant idea anytime.
     Portugal has been on my travel radar for a while, and thanks to this meal, it's gone up a few spaces on my priority list.

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