The Art of Brunch

It's abstract imagery, it's protean music, interpretive dance, free verse poetry, freestyle rapping— the art of brunch is anything the maker and the consumer want it to be.
     The blissful marriage of breakfast and lunch has been a favorite for many for quite some time. I can't imagine someone not loving brunch, but you never know. In the last couple of years, however, I have noticed a definite boom in the popularity of this enjoyable time for nourishment. Restaurants not known for having a brunch menu have jumped on the brunch cart and enjoyed an upturn in number of patrons.

     On one of our frequent trips to Baltimore, John and I stumbled upon a place called Granny's, a large space made to look small by its constant traffic. Their dainty heart-shaped corn bread rolls come to welcome you and put a smile on your face. I tried the pumpkin pancakes, subtle and delightful, and you can build your own omelette with any number of ingredients from a list of eighteen meats, cheeses, and vegetables.

Washington Monument, Baltimore

Thirty minutes north of Sarasota, Florida we found this bustling place in a strip mall. Don't you love when you find a treasure where you least expect it? And The Granary is just that, a farm-style decorated space dedicated to the art of brunch. They close at 3:00 pm! I indulged in a Black Forest Latte that complemented my raspberry white chocolate scone perfectly. But before that sweet ending, I treated myself to a favorite, Croque Monsieur, with all its ingredients well balanced, just like it's supposed to be.

Parrish, FL

     In Sarasota proper, Maple Street Biscuit Company offers sophisticated biscuit compositions on their menu as well as waffles and bowls for a pleasant variety. John had The Farmer, a biscuit with fried chicken, pecanwood smoked bacon, cheddar cheese, and house-made apple butter. I had the Sunshine in a Garden Bowl consisting of two eggs sunny side up in a tomato-based sauce over a biscuit. If you want to color outside the lines with biscuits, you will like this place. That said, in my world "small and delicate" are not words I want to use when I describe a flaky breakfast biscuit. Theirs are delicious, but small, like sliders, and we found them a bit pricey.

Sarasosa sunset

    

 Charleston radiates southern charm and they're no less charming in their approach to brunch. Among endless choices, Parcel 32 changes its brunch menu often, but based on my experience, I have no doubt the quality is consistent. The avocado toast is a celebration of avocado sprinkled with big chunks of feta cheese. I also had a rich cheese omelette over their crusty toast crowned with red caviar. John had the Buttermilk Biscuits and Gravy, which might I say, is not the average milky gravy normally served, but a carefully crafted version with satisfying sausage and chives flavor. And, as if we weren't already full to bursting, we shared a generous portion of decadent chocolate bread pudding.

Magnolia Plantation and Gardens, Charleston, SC

     This little tour barely scratches the surface. Brunch has always been an option, but lately, with all the restaurants offering a brunch menu and chefs all over the world adding their individual touches and nuances to beloved breakfast staples, brunch is trending and gaining status.

     Even though the word "brunch" has been in our vernacular since 1896, it originally implied something like a late breakfast on Mother's Day or Easter. Today, it's the preferred meal of anyone with a little disposable income. Breaking bread is a communal experience, and today, brunch is the quintessential vehicle for it.

BB Free ©2020

Hash House A Go Go

It is the self-professed home of twisted farm food. I say twisted, experimental, bold, even dangerous. My informant on this unconventional adventure was our server, Judy. She had just started working at Hash House but a few days before my visit, and was happy to share some of her most interesting observations. "I love working here. I'm proud of the product they offer." Judy has every reason to be proud.

   
     The first thing I noticed after the bright orange tractor that greets you as soon as you step inside was the odd way the tables were set. The napkins were placed in a crisscross pattern, and the utensils presented as farming implements ready for labor or swords ready for battle.
     The next source of pleasure came when I learned their monster breakfast installations were offered all day, and we all know that breakfast is the most important meal of the day, no matter what time you have it. And folks, this menu is epic. If you're a hard core foodie, it reads like Michener. I swear I could smell the farm freshness just from looking at the dish descriptions. I would feel sorry for you if your mouth didn't water at the words "Stuffed Hash House Meatloaf, with roasted red peppers, mozzarella, and marsala cream sauce." Marsala cream sauce, really? My apologies for drooling as I write. Or "Crispy Indiana Hand Hammered Pork Tenderloin Benedict on a massive biscuit dressed in yellow tomato, spinach, barbecue cream, and basted eggs." Pure poetry.
   

      John boldly faced the Sage Fried Chicken and Waffles, a massive tower of waffles, two fried chicken breasts, drizzled with a hot maple reduction, and fried leeks. The chicken was juicy and tender under the heavy breading, the waffles contained bacon, a favorite of John's, and I brazenly stole the fried leeks from his plate, and fell in love in a hurry. I see why this leviathan got the New York Times' seal of approval.
       Along with a divine Spiked Strawberry Kiwi Lemonade, I had the farm eggs Benedict with House smoked salmon and sundried tomatoes. I asked for a substitution of the chili cream for a Hollandaise, and I was told, almost in a whisper, that the chef/ kitchen manager, Andreas Feliciano, is peculiar about changes to his compositions. Anywhere else I would consider that a strike against the restaurant, but here it earns my respect. I totally understand that any alteration to these works of culinary art would be an artistic and unnecessary crime. I have this image of a mad scientist in an experimental kitchen, admiring his own creations in manic worship. Still, the kitchen staff did their best to accommodate me, removed the chili sauce, and gave me blue cheese dressing on the side. 
     Our dessert choice, Andy's famous bread pudding, was another audacious interpretation of an otherwise commonplace treat. It was warm, chocolatey, and mushy, which I like in bread pudding, especially with melting ice cream and chocolate sauce. And it was enormous. Six people would do it justice. We had to take three quarters of it home, and eat the ice cream or lose it.
     And on the subject of portion size, they are bordering on obscene. It's done on purpose to evoke a farmer's supper plate after a long workday on the farm. Hash House is what we think of as a dining experience, not just a restaurant. It's entertainment. It's exploration. It's unforgettable.

BB Free ©2018

Bulla Gastrobar

Inspired by the currently popular Spanish tapas restaurants, which encourage tasting and sharing a multitude of menu items, Bulla now has several lively locations in the greater Miami area. This space is modern and open and yet so busy this Saturday afternoon, that customers and servers must navigate the area carefully to avoid bumping into each other.

     We begin with a red sangria for me and a Golden Monkey beer for John. My sangria was sweet as candy, just the way I like it, and John's Belgian pale ale was smooth as silk, the way he likes it. We sampled their brunch menu with the Huevos Bulla, a large bowl of homemade potato chips, Serrano ham, potato foam, and truffle oil, all bathed in the succulent goodness of punctured egg yolks. It made for a hearty beginning although undistinguished.

   

     I also ordered the Bikini, a Brioche bun with tetilla cheese, Serrano ham, covered in bechamel sauce, and in the company of a fried egg. Once again, dipping the doughy bread into the thick, rich yolk mixed with the creamy bechamel made the dish gratifying.

     My second course was the Melón con Bellota, a platter of watermelon, Bellota, or acorn ham, heirloom tomatoes, Leonora goat cheese, and a drizzle of truffle honey. All these elements are of the highest quality, and yet on this platter, their blending was dull. There was lots of watermelon and tomatoes, sufficient ham, but the cheese pellets were scant. I don't like it when I get the feeling a restaurant is trying to economize at the expense of my satisfaction.

   

     John tried the Cochinillo Hash, a poached egg, which I inherited, braised shredded pork, and breakfast potatoes. But now that I think about it, this was simply a reconfiguration of his earlier dish, Huevos Bulla.

Photo by Louise S. (Yelp)

    

     A humdrum meal that ends in bright, delicious desserts gets redemption points, and this one ended on a positive note. We ordered the Brioche French toast and the Churros con Chocolate, that traditional Spanish treat of fried dough sticks tossed in sugar. They came with the promised chocolate sauce, but better even, with some thick dulce de leche for dipping. I had to force myself to share with John. The moist and doughy French toast came bejeweled with the freshest, plumpest berries, vanilla-berry syrup, and white chocolate Chantilly cream.

     Although nothing seems unique about this restaurant, their dishes are solid and prepared with high quality ingredients. It was worth a try.

BB Free ©2017

Bocas Grill

Looking through the menu at Bocas brought back memories of my decade in Venezuela. That was a long time ago, when that rich, beautiful country could be traveled and enjoyed without the burden of political upheaval, the disturbing reality currently unfolding in those parts.

    

A breakfast platter seemed like a good choice to sample a variety of items, so I picked the arepa, steak, eggs, and grilled white cheese combination. Arepas are the daily bread of Venezuela and Colombia, but also feature prominently in Panama and Ecuador. They're made of cooked flour, and if done right, as they were today, they're doughy on the inside with a toasted crunchy shell.

     The steak was well seasoned, and the slice of white cheese was grilled, which brought out its natural saltiness without overwhelming. The eggs missed the mark on the first try. The yolk was overcooked and dry, but David, our amiable Lenny Kravitz-lookalike server, was quick to replace them with perfect sunny side ups. When that velvet yolk broke, it spilled its goodness on the dense, meaty arepa, and all was well in my world.
   

     My friend Kim ordered a stuffed arepa called Catira or 'The Blonde', filled to bursting with savory shredded chicken and American cheese. She added a little pepper for spice, but I thought the chicken was well seasoned without it, and combined effectively with the mild cheese.
     The food was flavorful and satisfying, and prepared with care and creativity, but the motivation for my visit was their milkshakes. Yes, their milkshakes. Sounds too simple, right? Hold on.
     The menu offers three options: Dulce de Leche Churros, Oreos and Churros, and Nutella. Not an easy choice to make, but we finally went for the Dulce de Leche Churros. What arrived was a tower of sweets that can only be conjured in dreams... or nightmares, depending on your taste. The base is a thick dulce de leche shake, as promised, in a mason jar smeared in all the right places with sticky, caramelly dulce de leche and crushed vanilla oreos, and glued onto a plate with more of this delectable mixture. Over the rim of the jar sits a perfectly crunchy round churro, then a scoop of vanilla ice cream topped by another churro, all of this dripping in syrup.
     I don't advise that you tackle this dessert on your own. Make sure you have a friend to help you, and possibly consult your doctor before attempting it. But if you're healthy and willing, it's worth every sugary bite.

BB Free ©2017

   

Miss Shirley's Cafe

   

This small but thriving franchise is a tribute by the founder to a former employee and personal friend, Shirley McDowell, whose love of life and cooking inspired those around her. The large space is bustling from early in the morning until its closing time at 3:00 pm.
     Breakfast and brunch are serious matters at Miss Shirley's. It's Southern food made into delicacies, naughty cocktails to be consumed on long wrap-around porches while fanning the sweet heat away, puffy three-egg omelettes made with your choice of ingredients from a list containing items such as goat cheese, avocado, cranberry-maple turkey sausage, and the number one Maryland staple, crab meat. Similar diversity is offered for the creation of salads and pancake or waffle platters.
     Would that I could go into detail about some of the items I read on the menu- the Born On The Bay-O Bloody Mary, the Mac Crabby Bites, or Shirley's Affair with Oscar. But alas, I know I must restrain myself and describe only what I sampled. How I wish there was one of these in my city. I would be on a first name basis with every member of the staff, specially the floor manager that walks around keeping the servers efficient and quick, and checks with patrons on a regular yet non-intrusive way.
      I ordered an omelette with goat cheese and smoked turkey. My side was the potato and onion hash. I flinched a bit as I took the first bite, considering my general dislike of restaurant omelettes. I always find them bland and unimaginative. Not this time.
These eggs were buttery and complemented the distinct smoky turkey and the salty cheese. The hash was shredded thick and gently sauteed, but sadly, missing flavor. The butter I was saving to boost the eggs ended up in the hash. The dish came with one of Miss Shirley's Benne Seed Peach and Goat Cheese Buttermilk Biscuits. These alone probably won them half their numerous awards.
   
   

     John ordered straight up scrambled eggs and bacon with stone ground grits and a biscuit. I tasted the grits, and they were sweet and rich and made me thankful to be alive. He plowed through the eggs, which usually means there were no objections nor anything remarkable. In contrast, he munched on his bacon with deliberate pleasure, which means it was perfectly balanced between chewy and crispy. Over the years I've learned to read between the lines when Hubby eats. I didn't have to make any inferences about his opinion of the biscuit. The eternal traditionalist was very vocal about letting me know that embedded peaches and goat cheese don't belong in a biscuit. To him, it's just wrong.
     I, on the other hand, love a twist on a staple and delight in experimentation. Consider me Miss Shirley's newest fan.

BB Free ©2016
   

Chocolatea Cafe and Tea Bar

     This summer's vacation took us to Baltimore, Maryland with day trips to Washington, DC and Philadelphia. Our significant dining experiences, however, happened mostly in the Baltimore area. We stayed near the Homewood Campus of Johns Hopkins University, and most of our mornings were spent at this cafe frequented and staffed by college students. Few things in life give me a sense of excitement and hope like the aroma of academia.
     The space is small and, as I would've expected, it includes a tiny library nook. Their menu includes an extensive variety of chocolates, teas, and coffees, hot, iced, and frozen. The teas alone take up five pages online! Hubby is picky about his coffee, and since he found a satisfactory cup here, this became our starting point for each day of exploration.

   

     John welcomed the morning with a large and comforting latte. I tried that once, but I also tried their iced latte. Their coffee has body, and the flavor is robust. For breakfast we ordered a plain (sorry, classic) Belgian waffle, and a toasted bagel with smoked salmon, cream cheese, onions and capers. With all my experience with bagels and lox, I never paid attention to the capers. This time, I discovered what a punch of flavor they bring to the party.

   
Even on Father's Day, this was Hubby's retreat of choice. The official celebration would happen at dinner, but I know the hour he spent at Chocolatea reading the Wall Street Journal with his big mug of coffee in hand was the best part of his day.

BB Free ©2016