Showing posts with label Southern cuisine. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Southern cuisine. Show all posts

Tuesday, May 15, 2018

4 Rivers Smokehouse

How do you balance the search for satisfying food and budget-friendly dining? Because frankly Wendy's and Kentucky Fried Chicken have their limitations as comfort delivery systems. 4 Rivers presents a tantalizing option if your craving du jour is barbecue. It all started with John Rivers' barbecue cookouts for charity, and now it's the most popular barbecue chain in Florida and expanding with a new location in Atlanta, GA. And by the way, the Barbecue Ministry is still the highest priority. I cheered when I read that they would be hosting a fundraiser at their Coral Springs, FL location for those affected by the Parkland high school shooting.
    The food is served cafeteria style, and ample seating is available once you pay for your tray. I have no doubt that what's made them popular is the quality of their ingredients and their work with brisket. Don't let the casual surroundings fool you. Their smoked brisket demands respect.
      John and I picked the sandwich with two sides. John had the baked beans, and he believes he filled his daily nutritional allowance of vegetables with fried okra, while I chose only the cheese grits in expectation of dessert. Again, the brisket was tasty, juicy, and smoked to perfection. However, I was disappointed that the sandwiches were cold, and the bread was too mealy, and chewing it distracted me from my focus on the meat. John found the beans thick and sweet, with just the right amount of molasses, and I enjoyed the toasty, rich grits which came in a pie square.
     I can't help but like this place, and one of the reasons is that they also do dessert with care. The choice of sweets is as comprehensive as the rest of the menu, and that means their priorities align with mine. Rich chocolate, coconut, carrot, and red velvet cakes, cupcakes and sweet bars, and sundry confections and sweet treats. This is not your ordinary apple pie and soft serve ice cream. Now I'm forced to return because I could only allow myself one. I bounced between the Crispy Creme Bread Pudding, the Seasonal Whoopie Pie, and the Coconut Bomb. I finally decided on the Bayou Bar, a curious chunk of pecan shortbread crust with cream cheese filling. So thick, so decadent, it took me three days to finish it. No complaints here.
    With all the positives, a cold sandwich and chewy bread will not deter me from a repeat visit. There's plenty to explore on their menu and killer smoked brisket to enjoy.

BB Free ©2018

Thursday, February 8, 2018

The Olde Pink House


 
The Olde Pink House was a highlight of my time in Savannah.
In 1771, Habersham House in Savannah, Georgia, welcomed its builder and owner, James Habersham, Jr., and served as his family's home until 1800. Its soft brick eventually began to bleed through the plastered walls and changed its color from white to Jamaican pink. The house has had several reincarnations. In 1811 it became Planter's Bank, the first bank in Georgia. General Sherman gave the city to President Lincoln as a Christmas present, and the house became a military headquarters. During the Civil War it was an attorney's office, a bookstore, and a colonial tea room. Finally, in 1992 the Balish family from Charleston, South Carolina, purchased the stately building and returned it to its original grandeur for the enjoyment of all who visit and dine in this most fanciful, mystical structure.
 
     Every room of this mansion is a dining area, each with subtle differences in decor, yet always part of the whole splendid Georgian manor. The main floor is all classic refinement. You just have to feel romantic in this environment. Two other floors provide more dining areas, one called "the ballroom" is long, elegant, and sparkling with chandeliers. Smaller rooms have a slightly more rustic look as the glossy banquet chairs turn into bulky straight back leather ones. The basement is a dark, casual area called Planter's Tavern with exposed aged brick walls, a rough-cut stone fireplace surrounded by large wingback chairs in distressed leather, and a piano for live music. In back of this room is a small intimate space outfitted for a sexy dinner for two surrounded by endless bottles of wine and illuminated only by candlelight. It's actually a wine cellar that originally served as the money vault during the house's reincarnation as a bank. The space is inviting in an eerie way. Some say the house is haunted by the ghost of James Habersham, Jr. If so, I'm pretty sure this is where he hangs out the most. I would.
      I began this journey with a Planter's Punch, a cocktail of Papa's Pilar dark rum, Bacardi rum, pineapple and orange juices, and grenadine. John ordered the Service Brewing Company Compass Rose IPA, a local beer with infusions of grapefruit, pear, and orange peel. He's on a citrus kick these days. Even when he can't identify a flavor, he calls it citrus. My drink was deceptively gentle. It turns out the rums settle at the top and the bottom of the drink, so while I sipped the fruity liquid, it was quite benign, but as I reached the middle of the glass, I felt the heat of the alcohol in every skin pore, in a good way.
   
     The basket of table bread was a promise of good things to come. It contained dainty little corn bread muffins, warm, meaty biscuits, and soft, moist rosemary bread.
     The feast began with the Habersham Platter, a combination of shrimp and grits, a crab cake, and seared scallops. The grits were noteworthy because they came in the shape of fried triangle wedges which provided a crispy covering to the expected creaminess. Crab cakes are tricky for me. Most of the time they are either too bland or contain unwelcome hot spices. This crab cake was perfection, and it came sandwiched between two slices of tangy fried green tomatoes, a popular selection from the menu. And the scallops were thick and juicy, and left you wanting more.
     My entree was the Sweet Potato Ravioli with caramelized Vidalia onions and oyster mushrooms, finished with a pecan cream sauce. The sauce made this dish. It offered a perfect balance of sweet and savory and a distinct flavor that complemented the subtlety of the sweet potato in the pasta.
     If you're a foodie, you know that feeling you get after a luxurious feast that ends in an equally glorious dessert. The House didn't disappoint. Good ole' Southern pecan pie done with flair on a cinnamon pecan crust, with dark chocolate, served warm with vanilla bean ice cream. Let me tell y'all, that dark chocolate gave this pie a vitality of flavor unmatched by any other pecan pie I've ever tried, even others of the chocolate variety.
     Before I wrap, I must take time to write about the service at The House. Our server was amiable but professional and so knowledgeable about the history of the building, she should be a docent and give guided tours. She invited us to roam to our hearts' content after dinner, and when we did, I felt we were in everyone's way as we weaved around the bustle of servers on every floor. I found myself apologizing every few seconds, but every employee was gracious, eager to make space for us to explore, and willing to answer questions with a smile.
     I'm sure I don't have to tell you that I want to go back. I want to live in that house, really. When I return, my problem will be deciding on whether to repeat the luxurious experience of the upstairs restaurant, or explore the dark, mysterious Planter's Tavern in the basement. All my problems should be this delightful.

BB Free ©2017

Sunday, July 10, 2016

Miss Shirley's Cafe

   
This small but thriving franchise is a tribute by the founder to a former employee and personal friend, Shirley McDowell, whose love of life and cooking inspired those around her. The large space is bustling from early in the morning until its closing time at 3:00 pm.
     Breakfast and brunch are serious matters at Miss Shirley's. It's Southern food made into delicacies, naughty cocktails to be consumed on long wrap-around porches while fanning the sweet heat away, puffy three-egg omelettes made with your choice of ingredients from a list containing items such as goat cheese, avocado, cranberry-maple turkey sausage, and the number one Maryland staple, crab meat. Similar diversity is offered for the creation of salads and pancake or waffle platters.
     Would that I could go into detail about some of the items I read on the menu- the Born On The Bay-O Bloody Mary, the Mac Crabby Bites, or Shirley's Affair with Oscar. But alas, I know I must restrain myself and describe only what I sampled. How I wish there was one of these in my city. I would be on a first name basis with every member of the staff, specially the floor manager that walks around keeping the servers efficient and quick, and checks with patrons on a regular yet non-intrusive way.
      I ordered an omelette with goat cheese and smoked turkey. My side was the potato and onion hash. I flinched a bit as I took the first bite, considering my general dislike of restaurant omelettes. I always find them bland and unimaginative. Not this time.
These eggs were buttery and complemented the distinct smoky turkey and the salty cheese. The hash was shredded thick and gently sauteed, but sadly, missing flavor. The butter I was saving to boost the eggs ended up in the hash. The dish came with one of Miss Shirley's Benne Seed Peach and Goat Cheese Buttermilk Biscuits. These alone probably won them half their numerous awards.
   
   
     John ordered straight up scrambled eggs and bacon with stone ground grits and a biscuit. I tasted the grits, and they were sweet and rich and made me thankful to be alive. He plowed through the eggs, which usually means there were no objections nor anything remarkable. In contrast, he munched on his bacon with deliberate pleasure, which means it was perfectly balanced between chewy and crispy. Over the years I've learned to read between the lines when Hubby eats. I didn't have to make any inferences about his opinion of the biscuit. The eternal traditionalist was very vocal about letting me know that embedded peaches and goat cheese don't belong in a biscuit. To him, it's just wrong.
     I, on the other hand, love a twist on a staple and delight in experimentation. Consider me Miss Shirley's newest fan.

BB Free ©2016
   

Tuesday, April 5, 2016

Yardbird Southern Table & Bar

Once upon a time, before tha age of COVID, Swine Southern Table & Bar, Yardbird's sister restaurant, was arguably the brightest star in the pork specialty firmament. It stands to reason that the chicken version of this southern table and bar would be just as resplendent. Sadly, Swine is no longer with us, but Yardbird doesn't disappoint. Reservations are a must because waiting is considerable if you don't have one. Not one table is empty for more than five minutes. As soon as one party leaves a table, another swoops in to take it.
     It's an attractive place full of attractive people. Both staff and patrons have that cosmopolitan look about them, and they contrast well against the rustic yet polished farm decor. Our server, Lisa, was the perfect combination of polite, efficient and knowledgeable. A quick survey of the tables puts me in that Miami Beach mood- very European, lively and sophisticated, a tourist's heaven.

     I ordered a Southern Peach from their cocktail menu, and John picked the Sam (Adams) Seasonal, a pale ale he characterized as "brunch appropriate". That's the most eloquence I've ever gotten out of Hubby on any beer. Compared to his usual "It's good. I like it" grunt, this was almost lyrical.
     My libation came in that most delightful of vessels, the mason jar, and contained Wild Turkey, fresh lemon and thyme, white peach puree, and sweet tea. I'm not a member of the Church of Tea, a fact that shocks most people I know, but when the substance is presented like this, I could easily convert.
     If you only order one thing at this restaurant, it has to be their biscuits. You can stop looking for heaven. It's right here in these fresh buttermilk biscuits and their friends, maple butter and homemade spiced apple jam. Not only are these biscuits without equal, but the seasonal jams at these two establishments are pure spreadable love.
     In the interest of widening our experience, John ordered the most popular item on the menu, the Chicken N' Watermelon N' Waffles, and I chose the shrimp and grits. The names of these dishes belie what they represent. John's pick was a platter of delicately fried chicken, blocks of chilled watermelon, and a stout, Vermont sharp cheddar waffle in the company of some bourbon maple syrup. I've now been spoiled for any other waffle.
     
     My pearly grits were creamy, savory and lumpy in all the right places. The colossal shrimp were cooked to a perfect crunch, and everything waded in a Pabst Blue Ribbon jus that promoted this popular southern dish to a high-ranking culinary delicacy.


     At this point, the belly was full, and I was on a high that only an exceptional meal can produce for me. I was just as fired up about dessert as I was at the beginning of the meal. We ordered the Hickory Smoked Chocolate Coffee Cake served with house-made coffee ice cream. The cake was a compact pound cake with large chocolate chunks and drizzled with chocolate sauce. The ice cream is a smart addition for a couple of reasons. The cake is very dense and screams for something soft or liquid as company. The coffee ice cream has a solid, definitive flavor redolent of good gelato. What's not to like?


     Southern food in a most sophisticated interpretation, all elements used to their highest potential- that is the gift offered to patrons by this restaurant. Down home cooking with class.


BB Free ©2016 Revised in 2021

Saturday, February 28, 2015

Swine Southern Table & Bar

     With a name like 'Swine', you can only conclude that the cooks are arrogantly sure of their menu, and those who come to try it must be boldly intrigued, as I was on this crisp Valentine's Day. The space is long and tall. We sat on the balcony with a bird's eye view of the ground level and its dramatic stone wall and floor-to-ceiling recessed display of wine bottles and firewood logs.
      The atmosphere is a well-balanced combination of sleek and trendy with a strong hint of rustic aided by the blues and rockabilly music playing.
     John added a Turbodog to his collection of bizarre beers. My drink was called "Cherry Walnut Cobbler" so I expected dessert in a glass, but what's in a name? The ingredients sounded promising- Bourbon, Drambuie, walnut liqueur, cherry vanilla bitters and smoked pecans, but the bitters were so overwhelming, I couldn't get past the first sip to find the other flavors. The second act was much better. I replaced the Cobbler with the "Blackberry Bourbon Smash", an effervescent mix of Bourbon, fresh blackberries, lemon, mint and soda, served in my favorite drinking glass, the mason jar. Sweet Country happiness!
     A basket of plump buttermilk biscuits were delivered as a starter accompanied by maple whipped butter and a little jar of rich, powerful blackberry jam, my new favorite. I could've settled right there with this basket and my mason jar and called it a day. The biscuits were big, but every bite quickly melted in my mouth and all that lingered was the strong addictive sweetness of the blackberry jam, which left me begging for another bite of warm biscuit, and another, and another... The appearance of the waiter at our table with our brunch entrees broke the spell, and I prudently released the basket I  held hostage.
     For brunch entrees, we ordered the Pulled Pork & Eggs and the Brisket Steak & Eggs. The pork was sweet and tender, and the egg yolks spilled silky and warm over a bed of stone ground grits. It came with a small cast iron skillet of Brussel sprouts with chunks of green apple, everybody sauteed in a tangy and rich bacon vinaigrette. Southern comfort at its best.
     My opinion is that the brisket must have been cooking for at least a week by the way it surrendered to the fork with the slightest touch. John chose to have his organic eggs scrambled, and the dish came with a hash brown casserole with cheese and bacon that I found hearty and flavorful.
     Something called a Warm Sticky Icky Bun kept distracting me when I was reading the menu. Try as I might, I couldn't keep my eyes off it. "Maple-bourbon toffee syrup and sweet potato pie ice cream" are words that will not be ignored. But alas, I made a fatal mistake- I wore tight jeans and after my pork and eggs, a biscuit and my jar of liquid joy, there wasn't an inch left to fill. I reluctantly abstained from the sticky bun. That's a mistake I will only make once.

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